Everest - The First Ascent: How a Champion of Science Helped to Conquer the Mountain by Tuckey Harriet

Author:Tuckey, Harriet [Tuckey, Harriet]
Language: eng
Format: epub, mobi
Publisher: Lyons Press
Published: 2013-05-21T00:00:00+00:00

So please send me assurance (a) that you will see that my position and work for the expedition are properly recognised, and (b) that I am referred to not as Senior Physiologist, which, so far as the press is concerned, means the oldest physiologist, but as Director of Medicine and Physiology for the expedition . . . I have come to feel that this is so important to the success of the physiological programme that I cannot allow any MRC equipment to be shipped until I get your answer.

Pugh also wanted the authority that went with the title. His experience on Cho Oyu had convinced him that he must have full control over everything that would impact on his work. Success depended on the proper management of the expedition as a whole—facilities, food, hygiene, discipline. Therefore, he wanted explicit acknowledgment that he would be overall leader during the winter while Hillary was away. “In your absence this can only be me,” he wrote. “As you know, dear Ed,” Pugh entreated, “I have always had the highest personal regard for you, and I feel sure you will understand my point of view.”

In subsequent private correspondence Hillary reluctantly acknowledged Pugh as “Director of Physiology and Medical Services,” but in public he repeatedly referred to him as “my senior physiologist.” The issue of who would be in charge during Hillary’s absence continued to fester until the expedition was well under way.

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