Climbing Self Rescue (Mountaineering Outdoor Experts Series) by Andy Tyson & Molly Loomis

Author:Andy Tyson & Molly Loomis [Tyson, Andy]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Mountaineers Books
Published: 2012-02-08T11:00:00+00:00

FRENCH-FREEING

French-free is a term used by some U.S. climbers. Generally, when freeing a route you do not use your protection pieces for hand-or footholds. If you do, it is called “using a point of aid” or “French-freeing” (fig. 5-10). Without getting into the etymology or politics of the phrase, it is a good technique to employ if faced with a tough move, or if you are in a situation that you need to move quickly though and do not have time to work out the crux sequence. If a thunderstorm is impending and you are leading a tough pitch, you might want to speed it up with some selective gear grabbing.

Clip a quickdraw to the bolt and grab the draw while clipping the rope; keep climbing.

Place a piece and pull on it to get up to the next good handhold.

Add a foot sling to a piece for a high reach. Free climbers generally regard this as poor style. But getting yourself out of trouble is very good style, so yard away—just don't say you freed the route.

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