Climbing Anchors by John Long & Bob Gaines
Author:John Long & Bob Gaines
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781493001330
Publisher: Falcon Guides
This shows a climber running the lead rope through the anchor points as he takes off on lead. If he should fall, his full weight will come onto the anchor, not the belayer, which is a mixed blessing. It might mean less force directly on the belayer, but it will double the forces on the anchor. Better for this climber to forego running the rope through the anchor and instead place a bomber Jesus Nut as soon as possible, probably from his current stance, where the crack looks willing to accept a good piece.
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