Best Climbs Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot
Author:Jeff Smoot
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9780762786077
Publisher: Falcon Guides
PHOTO TODD STAHLECKER
Beware of killer avalanches down the chute, especially in late spring. Rockfall is likely, and after August the Fuhrer Finger becomes unsafe.
Descent: Descend via the route of ascent or the Disappointment Cleaver or Kautz Glacier routes. Glissading down the chute is popular, but not recommended for safety reasons.
16. Nisqually Glacier Icefall
Difficulty rating: 3
Grade: III
Class: AI2–3
Time to summit: 8–10 hours
Objective hazards: Highly exposed to rockfall and icefall
This route ascends the steep and heavily fractured Nisqually Glacier as it is squeezed down from the summit ice plateau in a narrow icefall. It is a challenging route, with steep snow and ice climbing over and around crevasses and seracs.
Traverse down and left (southwest) from Camp Muir to the center of the Nisqually Glacier and ascend the icefall as directly as is feasible. The exact route will depend on serac and crevasse conditions. This route has significant icefall and rockfall danger, particularly while passing below the ice cliff and Gibraltar Chute, and while below the icefall. Several large rockfalls occurred here in 2011, and the cleavers on either side of the icefall are seriously unstable and prone to further wasting. Nevertheless, this route remains popular, no doubt because of its menacing nature and easy accessibility. Be prepared for anything, including belayed ice climbing up seracs and ice cliffs. Ice tools, ice screws, and helmets are recommended.
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