Beastmaking by Ned Feehally

Author:Ned Feehally
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Vertebrate Publishing
Published: 2021-01-15T00:00:00+00:00

WHY USE A BOARD OVER A STANDARD CLIMBING WALL?

These days climbing walls set so many interesting and inspiring boulder problems that surely we can just train on these? I’d argue that board training is much more geared towards increasing climbing-specific strength (small holds, big moves, steep angles, consistent difficulty and so on) than standard indoor problems which may revolve around some blobs, unusual moves or a slippery foothold.

Board training also helps to develop creativity. In order to make up problems, we really need to think about the moves and how different holds work relative to each other. Forcing ourselves to consider this is so useful for developing our understanding of climbing and is an element of training that I feel can get missed out these days. People are getting spoon-fed a bit too much and aren’t developing their creative and analytical climbing brains as much as folk used to when the training facilities weren’t so good.

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