How to Taste by Becky Selengut

Author:Becky Selengut
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Penguin Random House LLC (Publisher Services)
Published: 2018-03-13T04:00:00+00:00

1 Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the kosher salt.

2 Meanwhile, cut the pancetta into lardons (¼ inch by ¼ inch by 1 inch) and place them in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Render the fat out of the pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until the lardons turn golden-brown and the fat has become translucent, about 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, add the black pepper, and let the pancetta sit undisturbed.

3 Cook the pasta until al dente and then carefully transfer it to the sauté pan along with 1 cup of the cooking water. Sprinkle the cheese evenly over the pasta and vigorously mix with tongs until there is a nice coating of cheesy, peppery, porky sauce cloaking the pasta. Serve immediately.

Dashi

MAKES A SCANT QUART

Dashi is where the science of umami began, and it’s the foundational stock at the center of numerous Japanese dishes. You can save the kombu and katsuobushi in a ziplock bag in the freezer to make what’s known as second dashi. First dashi is used for its intense umami in sauces, dressings, and miso soup. Second dashi is typically used in meat and vegetable stews where those ingredients will help add additional umami.

• 10 grams kombu (kelp)

• 1 quart water

• 20 grams katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes)

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