100 Techniques: Master a Lifetime of Cooking Skills, From Basic to Bucket List by America's Test Kitchen

Author:America's Test Kitchen [Kitchen, America's Test]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Cooking, Methods, Gourmet, Reference
ISBN: 9781945256936
Google: HQfWDwAAQBAJ
Amazon: 1945256931
Publisher: America's Test Kitchen
Published: 2020-04-07T00:00:00+00:00

Start with the Oven for Perfect Pan Roasting

The enviable goal of pan-roasting meat is to achieve supercrispy texture on the exterior of the food while cooking the interior to a perfect degree of juicy doneness. The most common approach involves stovetop followed by oven: searing first in a skillet on the stovetop to brown the exterior and then transferring it to a hot oven to finish cooking through. But for the most spectacular deep-brown crust and uniformly juicy and properly cooked interior, we often do the opposite.

The problem with searing the meat before transferring it to the oven is that, in order for the surface of meat to brown, it first has to lose the water it contains. Blasting raw meat on the stovetop with high heat long enough to dry out the surface will also start to overcook the layer below the surface. In the high, prolonged heat of the oven that follows, the meat ends up turning dry throughout, with a gray band of overcooked meat around the exterior.

So instead, sear the meat on the stovetop after roasting it in the oven. We particularly favor this hybrid cooking technique, known as reverse searing, for small whole roasts and thick racks, ribs, chops, and steaks. It involves first roasting the protein gently in a low oven until nearly done. This gently renders fat and minimizes the temperature difference between the meat’s center and its exterior, so the meat cooks through evenly from edge to edge. This process also dries the exterior of the meat. Then, since the exterior is already dry, the meat’s surface browns much more quickly once transferred to the stovetop. With this method, there’s no time for the meat beneath the surface to overcook, and the food can also maintain a better crust since searing is the last step.

Don’t be tempted to skip the stovetop sear and instead blast the meat under the broiler. The radiant heat of the broiler doesn’t work as quickly as direct contact with a hot metal pan, so even if you crank up the oven, the surface of the meat won’t develop a crust quickly enough and the interior will overcook.

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