Vogue on Yves Saint Laurent by Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni

Author:Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Abrams
Published: 2015-08-30T16:00:00+00:00

A year before employing her, he invited de la Falaise to his infamous 1971 collection; this had been inspired by Paloma Picasso, whom Saint Laurent recalled seeing at an event “in a turban, platform shoes, one of her mother’s 1940s dresses, and outrageously made up.” Seated next to Picasso, Loulou had her hair in ringlets and was wearing a bright pink Saint Laurent satin jacket and purple shorts. They were put in the audience, in order to talk about the show afterward and demonstrate support. Clearly, Saint Laurent was nervous about the collection: it was different from his other couture shows and nothing like anything else in fashion, at that time. After a lineup of 1940s-style dresses with plunging necklines, seen under fur chubbies (short, chunky fur coats) in green and blue, were designs like a velvet coat covered in lipstick kisses, large velvet turbans, puffed sleeves, ruched waists, and wedge heels. The louche styling of the models appeared shocking. Their lips were smeared with lipstick and it was evident that none was wearing underwear, particularly a voluptuous model whose large breasts bounced freely under her red dress. Eugenia Sheppard denounced the experience as “completely hideous.” Nor did any of the French audience approve. It was generally felt that referencing the 1940s brought up shameful memories of France under the Occupation.

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