The Rough Guide to France (Travel Guide eBook) by Rough Guides

Author:Rough Guides
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Travel, France
Publisher: APA
Published: 2019-07-23T04:57:54+00:00

It’s undoubtedly in the countryside that the region’s finest monuments lie. One of the loveliest stretches is the valley of the Dronne, from Aubeterre on the Charente border through Brantôme to the marvellous Renaissance château of Puyguilhem and the picture-postcard village of St-Jean-de-Côle, and on to the Limousin border, where the scenery becomes higher and less intimate.

Brantôme

The picturesque old town of BRANTÔME sits on an island in the River Dronne, whose still, water-lilied surface mirrors the limes and weeping willows of the riverside gardens. The countryside that surrounds the town, along the River Dronne, remains largely undisturbed, though Brantôme itself is firmly on the tourist trail. This is one of the most tranquil and beautiful parts of the Dordogne, best savoured at a gentle pace, perhaps by bike, on a boat trip, or even by canoeing along the river.

The abbey

Bd Charlemagne, north bank of the river • Caves & museum Feb, March & Oct–Dec daily except Tues 10am–noon & 2–5pm; April–May & Sept daily 10am–6pm; July & Aug daily 10am–7pm • €6

Brantôme’s former Benedictine abbey has been the town’s focus ever since it was founded, possibly by Charlemagne. Its most notorious abbot, Pierre de Bourdeilles, was the sixteenth-century author of scurrilous tales of life at the royal court.

The first monastery on the site is thought to have been troglodytic in origin, and the caves against which the later abbey was built were initially very important for worship, but over time were relegated to outhouses and storage. The caves here are arguably the most fascinating feature of the abbey; they’re hugely atmospheric, not least the Last Judgement Cave, where the origins of the huge bas-relief remain an enigma, but is thought to date back to the fifteenth century. Admission also includes entry to the Musée Fernand Desmoulin, dedicated to the illustrator and painter best remembered for the 75 drawings he did between 1900 and 1902, apparently under the influence of three different spirits – the drawings, especially compared to Desmoulin’s non-spirit work, are surprisingly modern, and some are undeniably eerie.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION BRANTÔME

By bus Buses between Angoulême (1–3 daily; 1hr 5min) and Périgueux (1–3 daily; 35min) stop in front of the gendarmerie on avenue du Docteur-Devillard, just a couple of minutes’ walk southeast of the town centre.

Tourist office Housed in the old Église Notre-Dame, directly across the river from the abbey church (March & Oct–Dec Mon & Wed–Sun 10am–noon & 2–5pm; April & May daily 10am–1pm & 2–6pm; June & Sept daily 10am–6pm; July & Aug daily 10am–6.30pm; 05 53 05 80 63, perigord-dronne-belle.fr).

Boat trips Brantôme Croisières (Tour des Gardes, rue Pierre-de-Bourdeille; April & Oct 2–4pm; May 2–5pm; June & Sept 11am & 2–5pm; July & Aug 11am, noon & 2–6pm; €8 (April–Oct; 05 53 04 74 71, brantomecroisieres.com) offers 50-minute boat trips up the Dronne in a 49-seater electric boat.

Canoe rental Brantôme Canoë, route de Thiviers (from €10/hour; reservations essential during July & Aug; 05 53 05 77 24, brantomecanoe.com); also offers stand-up paddleboarding.

ACCOMMODATION

Au Nid des Thés 13 rue Victor-Hugo 05 53 02 75 49, au-nid-des-thes.

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