The Great Canadian Bucket List by Robin Esrock

Author:Robin Esrock
Language: eng
Format: epub, mobi
Publisher: Dundurn
Published: 2013-09-22T16:00:00+00:00

Lunenburg, Nova Scotia (see page 254) and Old San Juan, Puerto Rico, are the only other two urban centres in North America designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

START HERE: canadianbucketlist.com/quebec-city

FIND MONTREAL’S BEST

SMOKED MEAT SANDWICH

When immigrants flooded into Montreal from Europe in the early 1900s, they brought with them passionate quirks and traditional recipes. The Italians delivered their fiery tempers and coffee shops. The Greeks brought their strong family values and their souvlakis. And the Jews? They gave the city a quirky neurosis, world-class delis and bagels that have no equal.

The origin of Montreal’s smoked meat sandwiches remains a topic of hot dispute. Some say the recipe is Romanian, others Lithuanian, but there’s little point fighting while the food’s getting cold. The Montreal smoked meat sandwich is a simple creation of edible perfection: rye bread, thinly sliced. Mustard. A pickle on the side. And the meat: expertly carved, melt-in-your-mouth steamed brisket piled so high you can build a fort with it. Choosing where to enjoy such a dish is no simple matter, and locals will let you know exactly why that is. The Great Smoked Meat Hunt has begun.

It starts at four a.m. at Dunn’s, where I wash ashore this 24-hour deli after a hard night’s research in the bars. Here, a brusque, whip-smart server tells me that Dunn’s recipe hasn’t changed in fifty years, and that, unlike some of the other shops, Dunn’s is still “Jewish owned.” Not exactly, since the company now has independently owned franchises around the country. The meat arrives steaming, and melts on my tongue. At four a.m., with food this good, I don’t care if Zoroaster Amazonian cross-dressers own Dunn’s—the sandwich is sensational.

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