The 50 Greatest Bike Rides of the World by Sarah Woods

Author:Sarah Woods
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Icon Books Ltd

Stretching along the Malabar Coast, and spanning 38,863 square kilometres (15,005 square miles), Kerala is shaped by the Lakshadweep Sea to the west. Fishermen, merchants, ferries and cargo freight have all plied these waters, with the first export departing Kerala ports in 3000 BC the region’s fine dried and powdered spices. Many European settlers were attracted to the region by the maritime spice trade, including the Portuguese. Kerala has long been known as the ‘Spice Garden of India’, though coconuts, tea and cashews flourish too. A store-owner in a spice-stained overall tells me proudly that in the last ten years the world spice trade has grown to around 500,000 tonnes of spices – and that the major chunk, by far, is still from Kerala. As I ride through fields, my nose catches a warm scented breeze infused with cardamom, clove, cinnamon, ginger, turmeric, tamarind, nutmeg and curry leaves. I gulp it down and imagine a time when the pepper of Kerala reached Europe through the Arab traders. Europe saw great potential in pepper as a food preservative and looked for complete control on its trade. Colonial wars and conquests followed, such was the power of spice.

Another fascinating fact I learn is that Kerala was once almost entirely undersea. Once I know this, I scrutinise the ground more carefully and discover evidence of ancient marine fossils. In fact, some crunch underfoot on crumbling rocks and I later learn that Kerala is a recognised centre for archaeological excavations. With a humid tropical equatorial climate, Kerala has three climatically distinct regions: the eastern highlands, rugged and cool mountainous terrain; the central mid-lands, rolling hills; and the western lowlands, coastal plains. The highest peak in south India – Anamudi – shoots up over 2,695 metres (8,842 feet) in the east of the region, while the western swathe of Kerala’s landscape is mostly flat (but I still manage to find a hill …).

Rainy days a year run to around 120–140 in Southwest Kerala, with seasonal heavy rains common in the monsoon seasons. Around 65 per cent of the rainfall occurs from June to August; the rest falls from September to December. In eastern Kerala, a drier tropical wet and dry climate prevails, with gale force winds, storm surges, cyclone-related torrential downpours and occasional droughts in summer.

Over 25 per cent of India’s 15,000 plant species are found in Kerala – a large number of them endemic or medicinal. Rice is grown everywhere in extensive paddy fields and you’ll find more than 1,000 species of trees. Some of the world’s most iconic wildlife species hide among the crops, foliage and tree cover, such as the Indian elephant, Bengal tiger, Indian leopard, giant grizzled squirrels, king cobra, viper, python and mugger crocodile. Elephants have long fulfilled an integral role in the culture of Kerala, where there is the largest domesticated population of elephants in India. Temples and wealthy landowners have around 700 domesticated elephants, which are kept mainly for ceremonial purposes and for the 10,000 or more colourful processions and elaborate displays at important state-wide festivals and celebrations.

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