Skoolie! by Will Sutherland

Skoolie! by Will Sutherland

Author:Will Sutherland
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: build a tiny house;small house plans;pictures of tiny houses;cabin plans;microstructure;smaking a tiny house;downsizing your home;downsize your home;small structure;alternative housing;inexpensive housing;american architecture;living on a bus;living in a van;mobile home designs;tiny-house movement;mobile tiny houses;tiny house nation;tiny house hunters;tiny house hunting;tiny house world;vacation homes;building your own RV;small kitchen solutions;reducing debt;how to reduce debt;living small;simplifying your life;simple life;decluttering;gift for dad;father's day gift;graduation gift;graduation present
Publisher: Storey Publishing, LLC
Published: 2019-08-06T13:56:48+00:00


Framing New Walls

Framing partition walls in your bus can be done with 2×3 or 2×4 studs, but you save a little space with 2×3s without compromising much in stability, given that a bus ceiling is much shorter than a traditional house’s ceiling (and therefore the walls are shorter). Before you install the studs, which run vertically, you must install a horizontal board on the bottom for studs to attach to; this is known as a bottom plate. You also need a horizontal board at the top, called a top plate.

The bottom plate attaches to your subfloor with construction screws, and these should not exceed the depth of the subfloor. The top plate attaches to the ceiling with self-tapping screws. Make sure the top plate self-tapping screws go into the ceiling ribs and not the sheet metal. Or, if you are replacing the ceiling sheet metal, you can secure the top plate to the wood framing boards attached to the ceiling ribs.

Make sure it’s plumb! It is very important to make sure the bottom and top plates are in alignment so your wall is plumb, or perfectly vertical. However, because a bus isn’t always sitting perfectly level, you will not be able to use a level to get an accurate reading for the interior framing. Here’s the workaround: Attach the bottom plate first. Then, to locate the top plate accurately, use a full-size framing square, a straightedge (such as a straight board) tall enough to reach from floor to ceiling, a human helper, and a pencil or marker.

Stand up the framing square with its long leg facing toward the ceiling and the corner against one end of the bottom plate. Be sure that the short leg of the square is flush against the floor.

Have your helper hold the straightedge upright and flush with the long leg of the framing square from top to bottom, with no gap between the straightedge and the square. Again, make sure the corner of the square is against the bottom plate and the short leg of the square is flush with the floor.

Use a pencil or marker to mark the ceiling along the top of the straightedge, thus transferring the location of the bottom plate to the ceiling. This mark notes the positioning of one side of the top plate. Repeat the same process to mark the opposite side of the bottom and top plates at both ends.

Now that you have your markers, you can install your top plate. Attach the plate with self-tapping screws going through the plate and into the bus ceiling framing. Don’t worry about the top plate being at a slight angle — that angle will be met with the studs.

Curve the top end to fit the ceiling. Because the top plate will attach to the curved ceiling, the top ends of the studs must be cut at an angle to fit flush against the top plate. To mark the angle for this cut, you can create a template with a piece



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