Rock Climbing Connecticut by Fasulo David;

Author:Fasulo, David;
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781493015139
Publisher: Falcon Guides

A-Frame Wall

To the right of the Emerald City face is a broken, low-angle face with a few low-quality routes. The following routes begin on the left side of the steep main buttress, farther to the right.

11. Wild and Woolly (5.7) Climb the overhang and left-facing corner system, passing a ledge with a tree. FA: Ken Nichols, Warren Wooley, 1980.

12. Mossad (5.9+ PG / R *; bolt missing 2015) Another Pinnacle classic at the left end of the main buttress, this entertaining route starts up a small but awkward overlap. Continue up to a larger overlap, over this (crux), and up a beautiful face (bolt) to the top. FA: Bob Clark, Ken Nichols, 1986. The route can also be climbed by starting up Wild and Wooley (5.8+) for about 15 feet and then moving right to the overlap and joining the route. FA: Ken Nichols, Mike Heintz, 1981.

13. Lil’ Roofs (5.11– TR) The roof and face system between Mossad and Star of David. Starting about 10 feet right of Mossad, climb straight up the cliff over two small overhangs.

14. Star of David (5.9+ R / X) A body length left of an ugly-looking crack, head up into a small A-shaped arch, step left, and pull over the overlap. Go up a dirty left-facing corner to the next overlap, then climb the face to a crack at the top. FA: Ken Nichols, Bob Clark, Steve Willard, 1985.

15. Badlands (5.4) The crack to the left of A-Frame. FA: Mike and Fred Heintz, 1980.

16. Superstitions (5.4 R) The arête to the left of A-Frame. FA: Mike Heintz, Ken Nichols, 1981.

17. A-Frame (5.6 *) Climb the impressive A-shaped alcove using either corner. Exit out the overhanging chimney at the top. FA: Ken Nichols, Mike Heintz, 1980.

18. Brave New World (5.11– R *) From the ledge on A-Frame, work up the right wall to the horizontal crack and get established on the arête. Follow the arête (right side) to the top. FA: Ken Nichols, Marco Fedrizzi, 1984. Age of Dinosaurs variation (5.12 TR): Once established on the arête, traverse left and climb up the center of the steep wall on the right of the A-Frame arch. FA: Ken Nichols, 1990.

19. Wild Kingdom (5.11– PG *; bolts and pitons missing 2015) Tackle the giant overhanging buttress to the right of the A-Frame arch. From the ledge on A-Frame, work right under the overhang. Move up, then slightly right (piton missing), then up the right-facing corner system to a two-bolt belay on the left. Move left and follow the clean corner system to the top. FA: Mike Heintz, Ken Nichols, 1981. Second pitch variations: The face above just left of the belay stance (5.6) and the face just right of the belay stance (5.5).

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