Mounting and Setting Stones by Sonia Cheadle

Author:Sonia Cheadle
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781789940985
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Published: 2021-01-15T00:00:00+00:00

Traditional gypsy-style of setting.

the example

As with many other setting styles, gypsy-setting a round stone is easier than tackling any other shape, because a round hole is what is produced when a drill or burr are used. The real challenge arises when attempting to gypsy-set the fancier-shaped stones. Therefore, for this example we are going to take a look at the processes involved in gypsy-setting a faceted pear, as in the picture here. Besides this, you will find a more detailed look at a 'quick gypsy' solution in Chapter 12, Specialist Tools and Techniques.

The processes outlined below may seem rather complicated, especially for someone who is relatively new to jewellery making, but sometimes it pays to challenge and push ourselves because very little is gained if we always choose the easy option.

so how is it done?

The first job here is to decide on a collection of stones and to accurately measure and record the diameter and depth of each one. These measurements are then used to calculate the dimensions of the bangle. The stone with the largest diameter will suggest an appropriate width for the bangle, and the stone that has the greatest depth will indicate the thickness of metal required.

Once this has been decided the exact amount of 22ct gold can be bought and the bangle can be made. 22ct yellow gold has a soft and malleable quality, which makes gypsy-setting fancy-cut stones an awful lot easier.

For the purpose of this exercise, and to help explain the processes involved in gypsy-setting a fancy-cut stone, the pear-shaped diamond in the centre of the image here has been chosen as the example.

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