Medieval and Renaissance Furniture by Daniel Diehl & Mark P Donnelly

Author:Daniel Diehl & Mark P Donnelly [Diehl, Daniel & Donnelly, Mark P]
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9780811710237
Publisher: Stackpole Books
Published: 2013-04-11T04:00:00+00:00

Now lay out the face of the cabinet on a level work surface and completely assemble it, fitting the joints snugly and squaring the face. Drill and dowel the face together according to the instructions on page 1. The locations of the ½-inch-diameter dowels are shown in the construction detail of the left side of the cabinet front. Move the cabinet face to the room in which it is to be installed before final assembly, because the size of the unit will make it almost impossible to move through doorways once it is assembled.

Mounting the Case and Frame

The completed frame is ready to mount on the cabinet’s front, but first the cabinet must be recessed into a properly prepared alcove. First, select an appropriate location for the cabon. With its 78½-inch height, it can appropriately be set at floor level, but the original cabinet actually sits on a stone ledge 22 inches above the chapel’s floor. Raising your cabon 8 to 10 inches above the floor may make it more convenient. If it is raised above floor level, however, a platform will have to be built to support the cabinet. In either case, to mount the cabinet in the wall, you need to cut an opening into which the case can be fitted. When cutting an opening in an existing wall, make the opening as near the size of the cabinet as possible, as the frame is only 3 inches wider than the exterior dimensions of the cabinet. Care in cutting will avoid the need for excessive plasterwork.

After the opening has been cut, build a sturdy frame around the interior edge of the hole—a surface on which to anchor the cabinet. The frame should be plumb and square, 1 to 2 inches wider than the cabinet, and ½ to 1 inch taller. Also make sure the floor or supporting platform is level; shimming the cabinet to level will be almost impossible after it has been eased into place. Once you are satisfied that the appropriately dimensioned opening is well framed, plumb, square, and level, slide the cabinet into place. Make sure that the front edge is flush with the surrounding wall, and nail the cabinet to the frame. You will undoubtedly have to fill gaps between the cabinet and frame; use scraps of wood or shims.

The face can be mounted on the front of the cabinet after it has been secured to the wall. Nail through the front of the face into the front edge of the case. Drive a few nails directly into the frame surrounding the cabinet to ensure a snug fit against the wall. Position the nails so that they will be hidden by the decorative columns.

Constructing the Doors

Each door is made from several ¾-inch-thick oak boards. The height and width of the doors are shown in the cabinet front drawing. Construct the face of each door by doweling two or more boards together, following the instructions on page 1. The grain on all the doors should run vertically.

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