Lonely Planet Istanbul (Travel Guide) by Planet Lonely & Virginia Maxwell

Author:Planet, Lonely & Virginia Maxwell [Planet, Lonely]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Lonely Planet Publications
Published: 2012-12-31T21:00:00+00:00

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Seeing the Dervishes Whirl

If you thought the Hare Krishnas or the Harlem congregations were the only religious orders to celebrate their faith through music and movement, think again. Those sultans of spiritual spin known as the ‘whirling dervishes’ have been twirling their way to a higher plane ever since the 13th century and show no sign of slowing down.

There are a number of opportunities to see dervishes whirling in İstanbul. Probably the best of these is the weekly ceremony held in the semahane (hall) in the Galata Mevlevi Museum ( Click here ) in Tünel.

Another good option is to attend one of the semas (ceremonies) held most Monday nights at a tekke (dervish lodge) in Karagumruk in the Fatih District and Thursday nights at a tekke in Silivrikapi, also in Fatih. These are the real deal, not performances put on for tourists. Note, though, that chanting – rather than whirling – is the main event. The easiest way to attend is to go with Les Arts Turcs ( Click here ), a cultural tourism company that charges 60 per person to give you a briefing about the meaning of the ceremony, take you to the tekkes from its office near Aya Sofya and bring you back after the ceremony.

For a more touristy experience, the Hocapaşa Culture Centre ( Click here ), housed in a beautifully converted 15th-century hamam near Eminönü, presents whirling dervish performances four evenings per week throughout the year.

Remember that the ceremony is a religious one – by whirling, the adherents believe that they are attaining a higher union with God – so don’t talk, leave your seat or take flash photographs while the dervishes are spinning or chanting.

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