Kayaking the Inside Passage by Robert H. Miller

Kayaking the Inside Passage by Robert H. Miller

Author:Robert H. Miller
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Countryman Press
Published: 2019-04-15T00:00:00+00:00


Turn west into Darby Channel toward Fitz Hugh Sound. Pass Finn Bay at the top end of Penrose Island, home to Friendly Finn Bay Retreat and Bucks Camp, last of the Rivers Inlet fishing resorts. Pierce Bay, the last bay on the north shore before Addenbroke Point, might yield a campsite on one of its many islets or coves. There is an active logging operation at the north end. Once round Addenbroke Point in Fitz Hugh Sound, campsites become much scarcer.

From Addenbroke Point, head north to Arthur Point, coasting along the mainland shore of Fitz Hugh Sound. Across the sound—albeit 5 miles off-route—on Calvert Island lies Safety Cove (mile 77/514), where Vancouver wrapped up the 1792 surveying season. Coastal Waters Recreation Maps indicates a campsite at its head alongside Outsoatie Creek. Tim Lydon, in Passage to Alaska, notes a small, sandy camp along the north shore. Pass by Phillip Inlet into Convoy Passage and head north between Blair Island and the mainland. Cross Patrol Passage to the west and Fish Egg Inlet to the east, over to Salvage Island and into Fairmile Passage. Fish Egg Inlet is extensive and very wild, with isolated lagoons protected by overfalls. It is full of intertidal critters and the wildlife that scrabble a livelihood from them.

North of Salvage Island, Illahie Inlet, fronted by the Green Island Group (mile 85/522), cuts into the mainland. The Green Island Group has a couple of campsites. One, shown on the Coastal Waters Recreation Maps, we did not persevere enough to find. It is located on Green Island itself, north of the giant midden site on the west side. The other covers a small, bare rock islet just off the northwest corner of the largest island at the entrance to Illahie Inlet. If you can hold out, there is a much nicer campsite 4 miles farther north.

About 0.5 mile south of Kwakume Point (mile 89/526), two treed islets are connected to shore by a white sand beach. Overnight accommodations just don’t get better than this. Kwakume Point itself has a light. Another 0.5 mile or so north, Kwakume Inlet (mile 90/527) cleaves the mainland. Just 0.75 mile inside the inlet, along the north shore, there is another campsite. Remember that the entire mainland coast south of Namu is grizzly country; camp defensively.

Koeye River: The Koeye River (mile 95/532; pronounced “Kwy”) has significance disproportionate to the modest watershed it drains. In 2001 the Raincoast Conservation Society, Ecotrust Canada, and The Land Conservancy of British Columbia deeded a 183-acre parcel and lodge at the mouth of the river to the Heiltsuk and Owikeeno First Nations, original stewards of the Koeye. On August 11 of that year, more than 300 members of those tribes, invited guests, and chance visitors gathered at the Koeye to celebrate the transfer of ownership. Additionally, much of the moss-draped, old-growth forest lining the river is now protected from further logging. Just inside the mouth, along the south shore, are some good campsites. About a mile up the



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