How to Read a Suit by Lydia Edwards

Author:Lydia Edwards
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781350071186
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Published: 2019-07-15T00:00:00+00:00

A. Tweed flat caps became an emblem of middle and upper class country sport and leisure pursuits, at the same time they continued to be worn daily by countless working class men and boys.

B. These buttons are made from cow or buffalo horn, a material introduced for the purpose from around 1812.47

C. The Norfolk’s box pleats were sometimes made with openings that allowed the belt to pass through, leaving two strips of fabric covering it. Here, the reverse is shown, but both decorative options were popular.

The waistcoat beneath is single breasted, with seven buttons and three pockets.

D. Round, open cuffs were popular, though later examples sometimes featured a band at the wrist.

E. Norfolk jackets were very often worn with knickerbockers, particularly for golf, shooting, and walking. By the twentieth century it had become just as common to see them paired with trousers—usually in the same color and fabric, as seen here, but also made from flannel or knitted materials in differing shades.

F. The number and style of pockets illustrate the many ways a Norfolk jacket could be modified according to its wearer’s preferences. “So much, in fact, does it vary in its features,” said the Tailor & Cutter in 1914, “that the term ‘Norfolk’ can almost be regarded as a misnomer.”45 This example shows four flapped pockets, making them a prominent feature. However, other coats from the same era were made with, for example, concealed breast pockets under the front pleats or straps (sometimes the box pleats were simulated), only two at the hips or, occasionally, no pockets at all.

This suit is made from brown cheviot, a fabric originally crafted of worsted wool from the Cheviot sheep. It is very hard-wearing, usually made as a twill weave with a dense, rough surface. For these reasons it is perfectly suited to country pursuits.

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