Gordon's work on cutting men's garments; by Gordon Selden Smith 1843-

Author:Gordon, Selden Smith, 1843- [from old catalog]
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Tags: Tailoring
Publisher: Huntington, N.Y., The S. S. Gordon company
Published: 1910-03-25T05:00:00+00:00

Diagram 39.

(91)

THE INVERNESS.

( With Sleeves.)

Diagram 40.

HpHE measures used and taken over the under coat are the same

as for the preceding diagram, except that the waist is 37

and back-waist Sy inches. When drafting, increase the breast,

waist and seat each 1 inch. The formula will then be as follows:

39; 37; 40; gy 2 ; 1714; 26; 45; ny 2 ; 13; i8# ; SV 4 .

To Draft.

Square forward and downward from A, and obtain the lengths to B, C, D and E, also point 1, and square forward from 1, B, C, D and E.

C to 10 is ^ inch. Draw a straight line from A through 10 for the center-of-back.

C to F is J / 2 inch. Connect F and A to establish N.

N to K is the blade. K to L is y inch. K to M is i l / 2 inch. K to P is 1^4 inch more than 1/6 breast. N to Q is a full half of the breast. O to R is 2 x / 2 inches. R to 2 is 2 inches or to style. Square upward from M and P and downward from K. This gives S.

From the line from J 19 to 4 is y inch. From 9 to Z is y inch. Shape the scye from 4 through Z to the front-scye notch iy 2 inch above M, dropping y 2 inch below the breast-line as represented.

From 4 to 5 is 1 inch. E to 6 is 2 inches more than 1/3 breast. Connect J and 6 to establish T, and shape from 5 through T to 6 as represented.

All the points on the forepart above the breast-line are obtained in the same manner as explained for Diagram 39. Observe particularly that point N is on the line A F, not on the center-of-back line, and that N rests on the sweep-line from Y.

F to T and S to U is the back-waist. F to T and U to V is a full half of the waist. V to W is 2)4 inches. W to 3 is the same as R to 2. Square downward from W and 3. Make from 5 to 12 the same as from 5 to 6 and shape from 12 to 21 passing y 2 inch below 20.

Take the distance from N to R and finding a pivot just below N sweep from R to X. This gives 18. The line below 18 through R and W is the center-of-front.

The cape is drafted in the same manner as explained for Diagram 39. It is represented by the broken lines.

(92)

Download

Copyright Disclaimer:
This site does not store any files on its server. We only index and link to content provided by other sites. Please contact the content providers to delete copyright contents if any and email us, we'll remove relevant links or contents immediately.