Food Lovers' Guide to® Portland, Oregon by Laurie Wolf

Food Lovers' Guide to® Portland, Oregon by Laurie Wolf

Author:Laurie Wolf
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781493006700
Publisher: Globe Pequot Press


Noisette, 1937 NW 23rd Pl., Portland, OR 97210; (503) 719-4599; noisetterestaurant.com; American; $$$$$. Black American Express cardholders, listen up! Your dining experience at Noisette will be an 8-course tasting menu. It’s a pretty incredible dining experience, albeit a very expensive one. The food is elegant and interesting, and this is what we had for dinner the night we ate there: Maine day boat lobster, crushed gold and red beets with avocado terrine, basil emulsion, and Meyer lemon, Oregon coast albacore tuna tartare, black garlic puree and breakfast radish salad with toasted croutons and duck liver vinaigrette, butternut squash soup, salish alder smoked salt and crème fraîche, smoked Idaho white sturgeon, chive-scented fingerling puree with Oregon hedgehog mushrooms, Yukon Gold confit and bearnaise sauce, mushroom pasta tortellone, yellow foot chanterelles and chive beurre monté, moulard duck liver, toasted brioche with organic Granny Smith apples and calvados sauce, wagyu culotte and Painted Hills short ribs, kale-fingerling puree with brussels sprout leaves, crushed celery root and compressed radish salad with short rib sauce, Valrhona chocolate soufflé, manjari chocolate, and red wine reduction. We left quite happy. And hopefully we will go again next year if we can save up. Maybe we’ll mortgage one of our dogs to defray the cost!

Oba! Restaurante, 555 NW 12th Ave., Portland, OR 97209; (503) 228-6161; obarestaurant.com; New Latin; $$$. The foods of South America are deftly prepared at this colorful and festive Northwest restaurant. The menu is quite interesting, and the food tastes as good as it is described. The bacon-wrapped stuffed jalapeños were spicy but not too, and my entree, the bife a micalense, a steak topped with caramelized banana, bacon, and mustard cream sauce, was a terrific blend of unusual ingredients. The half chicken roasted over mesquite was delightful, served with a tomato cucumber relish and potatoes. For dessert we shared a warm caramel apple cake; it was a perfect end to a delightful meal. I’ll be back! See Oba! Restaurante’s recipe for Bife a Micalense on p. 183.

Paley’s Place, 1204 NW 21st Ave., Portland, OR 97209; (503) 243-2403; paleysplace.net; Northwest; $$$. Paley’s Place Iron Chef winner Vitaly Paley has been running his popular restaurant in an old Victorian house in Northwest Portland since 1995. The restaurant has about 50 seats and is sophisticated while still remaining friendly and warm. Paley creates his menu based solely on the products of the Pacific Northwest. The local organic foods use sustainable methods. The escargot bordelaise with marrow and garlic was outstanding, as were the crispy sweetbreads served with herb spaetzle and mushrooms in a morel cream sauce. The cocktails are done well—my first Lemon Drop experience was here, and I have been a fan ever since.



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