Discovery Road by T. Garratt

Author:T. Garratt
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Eye Books
Published: 2014-08-10T11:12:52+00:00

Britain declared Nyasaland, as it was then known, a protectorate in 1891 and introduced tea and coffee plantations which grew quickly and prospered using native labour. The increasing use of forced African labour on white settler plantations led to unrest amongst the Malawians.

Opposition to British colonial rule surfaced in the southern highlands and became a serious threat in the l950s. More and more land was being expropriated by the British, a hut tax was introduced and traditional slash-and-burn methods of agriculture discouraged. As a result, increasing numbers of Africans were forced to seek work on the white settler plantations or became migrant workers in Rhodesia and South Africa. By the 1950’s, one hundred and fifty thousand Africans were leaving the country every year.

It was at this time that the Nyasaland African Congress was formed to oppose colonial interference in traditional agricultural methods. Support for the Congress was limited until Doctor Hastings Banda was invited to return home and take over the leadership. By this time, Banda had spent forty years abroad in the USA and Britain studying and practising medicine.

On his return to Nyasaland, Banda was so successful in whipping up support that, a year after he took over, the British were forced to declare a state of emergency and threw Banda and other activists into jail, suppressing all opposition and killing more than fifty Africans in the process.

Opposition continued to gather pace to such an extent that in 1961 the colonial authorities had to release Banda and grant the country independence. Banda’s Malawi Congress Party swept to victory in the elections that followed, and Malawi gained independence in July 1964.

Although he gained power through the democratic process, it was clear from the beginning that Banda had no intention of relinquishing that power. He demanded his ministers declare allegiance to him. Rather than do this many of them resigned and went into exile. Having now dealt with the opposition, Banda strengthened his dictatorial powers by having himself declared ‘President for life’.

Thousands of political prisoners languished in Malawi’s jails, and as Amman had told us spies and informers were still a reality. Criticism of the president was considered treasonable and dealt with savagely.

Whilst we were in Cape Maclear, a leader of an opposition party returned to Malawi after years of exile in Zambia. He was arrested before his feet had touched the runway and whisked away by security police in front of the cameras of the world’s press. Banda’s spokesman told waiting journalists, ‘...Any person opposing the President can expect to be fed to the crocodiles.’

We found Golden Sands at the far end of the village. It was a quiet spot with a clean beach of white shale. The campsite was spread out amongst shady trees, but we managed to get a good deal on a rondaval (circular beach hut) and booked in for a few days of rest and recuperation.

‘What about tomorrow, mister Tim?’ Amman asked. ‘Would you like canoe trip? If you wish Arran and I get canoe and take you fish and swim.

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