The Rough Guide to Korea by Rough Guides

Author:Rough Guides
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Travel, Korea
Publisher: Apa Publications
Published: 2018-09-24T10:10:15+00:00

Dokdo Museum

독도 박물관 • Museum daily 9am–6pm • Free • Cable car daily 5.30am–8pm • W7500 return

If you head uphill from the ferries and stick to the left, you’ll eventually come across a sign pointing to the Dokdo Museum, which together with an adjacent historical museum forms part of a small park. The former is the most interesting, as it details the Korean claim on Dokdo, a tiny scrawl of rock east of Ulleungdo. Also in the park is a “healthy water” spring, the metallic taste presumably proof of some kind of goodness. The walk up is quite a slog, and most who make the climb are heading to the base of a cable car, ready to be whisked up a nearby peak to take in some wonderful views: on clear days, you may be able to see Dokdo across the seas.

Jeodong-ni

저동리

A short taxi ride – or a half-hour walk – away from Dodong-ni is JEODONG-NI. Open-plan and spread out along a harbour, rather than wedged into a valley, it’s something like a flattened version of its neighbour; here you’ll see far fewer visitors, fewer minbak, and therefore an atmosphere more in keeping with the general nature of the island. It’s the kind of place where you can idle away a fair few hours doing nothing at all.

The harbour is a great place for a walk, and is full of fishing boats dangling dozens of high-wattage bulbs, used to lure squid to their doom. The tall finger of stone that protrudes through the harbour’s outer wall, called “Candlestick Rock”, is the village’s defining landmark.

Naribunji

나리분지 • Take the coastal road bus and get off at Cheonbu (천부), where a 4WD will be waiting to take passengers over the hill to Naribunji (W1000)

To the north of the island lies a geographic anomaly. Naribunji is literally the only flat space on Ulleungdo, a dreamy patchwork of fields entirely encircled by mountains; it’s a fantastic place to base yourself and spend a day or two walking through fields, taking in the surrounding forest or doing absolutely nothing. It’s also a good start or finish point for a hiking trip up and over the mountain; you may notice cable-car wires heading up into the hills, but unfortunately this service is for the use of local military only.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE ULLEUNGDO

Due to the absence of an airport on the island, there’s only one way to arrive – by ferry. At the time of writing, all services were using the port at the main settlement of Dodong-ni, but plans have long been afoot to make a larger terminal elsewhere on the island. Ferry schedules were also in a constant state of flux – double-check with any tourist office before heading out.

From Pohang Most travellers get here from Pohang (포항), a large but uninteresting city near Gyeongju on the mainland’s eastern coast. Services leave each morning at 9.50am (3hr; W64,500), returning at 3.30pm. The terminal at Pohang is a short taxi journey from the train station or either

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