The Rough Guide to Ecuador & the Galapagos (Travel Guide eBook) by Rough Guides

Author:Rough Guides
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Travel, Ecuador
Publisher: Apa Publications
Published: 2019-08-01T04:57:54+00:00

The road to Baeza

East of Quito, the road heads steeply up to the Papallacta Pass – at 4064m the highest paved road in Ecuador. At its highest point, named La Virgen after the simple shrine on the roadside, a track heads north up to some radio masts, the access point for the beautiful Páramo de Papallacta grasslands at the southwestern corner of the Reserva Ecológica Cayambe-Coca. Crossing the pass takes you over the continental divide, past bare, lake-studded hills eclipsed by the four glacier-streaked peaks of Volcán Antisana, looming through the clouds to the south at 5758m. After a further winding 18km and a drop of almost a thousand metres, you arrive at the small town of Papallacta, home to Ecuador’s most famous thermal baths, before descending through increasingly lush greenery to the rolling pastoral landscapes near Baeza. Giant oil and supply trucks shudder up and down this eastern flank of the Andes on their way to Lago Agrio and Tena via Baeza, but despite the traffic it’s a stunning route, traversing a range of habitats as it plunges more than 2km in vertical height, over 40km.

Papallacta

About 60km east from Quito, PAPALLACTA (3120m) is most famous for its steaming hot springs – highly ferrous pools reputed to relieve numerous ailments, from kidney trouble to ganglions. The town itself, a string of buildings huddling by the road, isn’t of much interest and new power lines have done it no favours, but lying in a steep, green valley, its location and the surrounding scenery are stunning. Though budget travellers might prefer to stop off at the refurbished community-run thermal pools in the village – the Complejo Santa Catalina (daily 6am–6pm; $3) – it’s worth pushing on to the main hot springs, a 2km uphill slog into the crook of the valley. It’s an excellent day-trip, or even an evening excursion, from Quito.

Las Termas de Papallacta

Valley head, 2km from the village • Balneario Mon–Fri 6am–10.30pm; weekends and public holidays until 9pm • $9 • Spa Daily 9am–8pm • $23 • termaspapallacta.com

Papallacta’s best hot spring – and perhaps the best in Ecuador – is Las Termas de Papallacta, comprising two beautifully designed, well-managed bathing complexes, both with on-site restaurants and snack bars.

The Balneario

The Balneario has nine thermal pools, ranging in temperature between 36°C and 42°C, and three cold pools built in gentle terracotta curves and natural rock, while the heart-stoppingly cold Río Papallacta itself offers a serious cool-off. Don’t miss the three small secluded pools up the hill to the left of the restaurant; the top one is over 40°C and is perfect for supine gazing at the mountain ridges.

The Spa

The Spa has six large pools with water jets and bubble massagers for the exclusive use of guests staying in the complex’s accommodation, as well as a “Thermal Club” offering a range of spa treatments.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE PAPALLACTA

By bus Buses from Terminal Quitumbe in Quito heading for Lago Agrio and Tena, via Baeza, pass Papallacta (every 30–40min until late; 1hr 30min). Some buses will

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