The Kook's Guide to Surfing: The Ultimate Instruction Manual: How to Ride Waves with Skill, Style, and Etiquette by Borte Jason

Author:Borte, Jason
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Skyhorse Publishing
Published: 2013-05-31T16:00:00+00:00

PART II: WAVES

CHAPTER 8- NO TWO WAVES ARE THE SAME

In This Chapter

Right or Left

Beach Break

Point Break

Reef Break

Bunny Slopes or Black Diamonds

Artificial Waves

Weird Waves

My father completely supported my surfing, but he used to give me the hardest time when I asked him to drive the extra five minutes to drop me off at the far end of the beach near the jetty. He refused to believe that the waves there were any different than they were thirty blocks away, where it was far easier to drop me off. It was, after all, the same ocean, the same swell, and the same beach. By spending his formative years shooting pool and looking for fights, he did not get much time in the water. As a result, he failed to understand that the ocean bottom determines how a wave breaks, and the bottom can be vastly different at two locations along the same stretch of beach. Heck, I didn’t understand it either. All I knew was that the waves were better next to the jetty, so that was where I had to surf.

Since the ocean bottom—be it sand, reef, or just a bunch of rocks— is what tells a swell how and when to break, it is an area we should know intimately. Everyone gets a free tour of the bottom during a wipeout, but that is not what I am talking about. On a flat day, grab a mask and snorkel and go exploring around the lineup. You will be amazed at what is under there.

In the meantime, we will examine various types of waves and see how and why they differ. Afterwards, you will be able to stride confidently up to the beach and know what you are looking at. Then, you can call my dad and let him know I was right.

Download

Copyright Disclaimer:
This site does not store any files on its server. We only index and link to content provided by other sites. Please contact the content providers to delete copyright contents if any and email us, we'll remove relevant links or contents immediately.