The International Living Guide to Retiring Overseas on a Budget by Suzan Haskins & Dan Prescher

Author:Suzan Haskins & Dan Prescher
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781118863152
Publisher: Wiley
Published: 2014-04-22T00:00:00+00:00

Nicaragua’s Caribbean Coast—Yes, It Has One!

Named for the Dutch pirate Henry Bluefeldt who hid out there in the early 1600s, the town of Bluefields sits at the mouth of Río Escondido where it joins the murky Bluefields Bay on Nicaragua’s eastern shore. It’s the country’s principal Caribbean port and the heart and soul of this primarily English-speaking region. If you like hot reggae dance clubs, bustling markets, and strolling along busy seaport waterfronts, you’ll like Bluefields. But for many expats and tourists, Bluefields is simply where the plane lands before taking off again for Nicaragua’s Corn Islands.

Just about 40 miles from the mainland, the Corn Islands, or las Islas del Maíz, are what the Caribbean was like long ago, before the big resorts moved in. Big Corn Island covers just four square miles and is lush with green, forested hills and mangrove swamps in the interior and miles of beautiful white coral sand beaches on the fringes. Its 8,000 inhabitants—descended from European pirates, British landowners, and African slaves—are friendly and welcoming.

The island’s main population center is on the west side in and around the main town of Brig Bay, while the east is sparsely populated, with sections of rocky coast, lagoons, and mangrove swamps. Prevailing easterly winds keep the nights cool and comfortable.

As for the economy, it was based mainly on palm oil production until 1988, when Hurricane Joan’s 125-mph winds destroyed most of the island’s palm trees. Today, the islanders make their living plying the seas for lobster, and tourism is just starting to take off. And when we say “just starting” we mean it . . . there is but one dive shop on the island even though one of the world’s largest underwater reefs is just offshore. There are no coffee shops, no Internet cafés, and no grocery stores with anything but the most basic supplies.

Little Corn Island is smaller than Big Corn, as you might guess from the name, and it is every bit the tiny Caribbean hideaway. Ringed with sparkling white sand beaches and clear blue waters, it’s a pristine destination for those who travel well off the beaten track. There’s excellent fishing, world-class diving, mouth-watering seafood, and the companionship of a lively but small group of hard-core travelers. Only about 800 acres in size, there are no motor vehicles on Little Corn, and only about 250 visitors can be accommodated at one time.

Development is happening in the area, on both Little and Big Corn and on the coast near Bluefields, but it is happening slowly and not in any large-scale way. We expect the area’s unique and off-the-beaten-path character to carry on for some time yet, which is just fine with the few expats who have found their way here.

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