Rick Steves' Italy 2014 by Rick Steves

Author:Rick Steves
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Avalon Travel
Published: 2013-10-22T16:00:00+00:00

$ Two Steps from the Tower B&B, in the historic center just a few blocks east of the Field of Miracles, offers three Ikea-style rooms in a modern apartment block (Sb-€30-40, Db-€55-70, extra bed-€15, weekly rates available, free Wi-Fi, kitchen use-€10/day, 2 rooms have access to small garden, Via Cardinale Pietro Maffi 6, tel. 347-394-6559, www.2stepsfromtower.com, [email protected]).

Eating in Pisa

Antica Trattoria il Campano, just off the market square, has a typically Tuscan menu and a candlelit, stay-awhile atmosphere. Their €30-35 tasting menus include wine and generous portions of local specialties (Fri-Tue 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-22:45, Thu 19:30-22.45, closed Wed, reservations smart, Via Cavalca 19, tel. 050-580-585, Giovanna).

Ristorante Masala serves tasty, authentic Indian cuisine just a few blocks from the Tower. As there is a large Indian community in Pisa, this is a great place to take a break from pizza and pasta (€4-9 curries, vegetarian options, Tue-Sun 19:00-23:00, closed Mon, Via Roma 52, tel. 050-48513).

At Ristorante Bagus the specialties are an extra-rare burger made with the famous Chianina beef and trendy twists on typical Tuscan fare (€30 fixed-price meal, Mon-Fri 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-23:00, Sat 19:30-23:00 only, closed Sun; heading south on Corso Italia, turn right on Via Nunziata and take your first right after Piazza Griletti to Piazza dei Facchini 13; tel. 050-26196).

Da Michele is a handy choice if you are sleeping near the train station. A family-run, basic affair, the home-cooking is tasty and reasonably priced, and the place stays open late. The tiramisù is a classic (daily 12:00-15:00 & 18:00-23:00, except sometimes closed Wed; 3-minute walk from recommended Hotel Alessandro della Spina heading toward the station at Viale Bonaini 96/100, tel. 050-24128).

Pizzeria al Bagno di Nerone is a local favorite and particularly popular with students. Belly up to the bar and grab a slice to go, or sit in their small dining room for a whole pie. Try the cecina, a crepe-like garbanzo-bean cake (Wed-Mon 12:00-14:30 & 18:00-22:30, closed Tue, a 5-minute walk from the Tower at Largo Carlo Fedeli 26, tel. 050-551-085).

At Paninoteca il Canguro, Fabio makes warm, hearty sandwiches to order. Check the chalkboard for seasonal specials, such as porchetta (daily 9:00-24:00, may be closed Sun in winter, Via Santa Maria 151, tel. 050-561-942).

Panetteria Antiche Tradizioni—not to be confused with another panetteria across the street—is a sandwich/bread shop with complete fixings for a picnic. Build your own sandwich with homemade bread or focaccia, then choose fruit from the counter, fresh pastries from the window, and cold drinks or wine to round out your meal (daily 8:00-20:00, Via Santa Maria 66, mobile 327-570-5210).

Drop by cheery La Lupa Ghiotta Tavola Calda for a cheap, fast, and tasty meal a few steps from Pisa Centrale train station. It’s got everything you’d want from a ristorante at half the price and with faster service (build your own salad—five ingredients for €4.50; Mon-Sat 12:15-15:00 & 19:15-23:30, closed Sun, Viale F. Bonaini 113, tel. 050-21018).

The street that houses the daily market, Via delle Colonne (a block north of the Arno, west of Borgo Stretto), has a few atmospheric, mid-priced restaurants and several fun, greasy take-out options.

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