History of Illustration by Susan Doyle Jaleen Grove Whitney Sherman

Author:Susan Doyle, Jaleen Grove, Whitney Sherman
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781628927559
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Published: 2018-05-16T16:00:00+00:00

Figure 17.13

Paul Gavarni, “Modes de Longchamps,” 1839. Lithograph, 14 1/2 × 10 3/4”.

Paul Gavarni, better known for his caricatures, created fashion plates early in his career. The figures in his plates often react to each other in a manner not found in other plates of the era; at times, the interaction hints at seduction or intrigue.

Photograph © Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. Gift of Miss Amy Pleadwell, 51.215.

Fashion illustrators found work in the couture houses. Evidence shows that from the mid-nineteenth century, some artists actually sold designs that served as inspiration to Paris dressmakers and early couture houses.2 Later, the couture houses hired illustrators who, at times, worked directly with the couturier and sketched the new designs as the maestro draped them on a live model. They also drew illustrations of each design in the finished collection that could be sent to clients (Figure 17.15).

The interest in and growing access to fashionable dress resulted in the introduction of more than 150 fashion periodicals during the nineteenth century in countries throughout Europe, the United States and South America—all of which included fashion plates. The French, however, continued to dominate the fashion world, and French illustrations were distributed to foreign publishers who would reproduce them in their periodicals. It was not until the later part of the nineteenth century, when advances in printing technology and photography made the inclusion of photographs in magazines possible, that the fashion plate lost its popularity and fashion illustrators found new ways to exercise their talents.

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