Discover Caribbean Islands by Lonely Planet

Author:Lonely Planet
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Lonely Planet

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Getting There & Away

Boat

All ferries leave from the Gare Maritime de Bergevin, 1km northwest of Hôtel Saint-John Perse.

Bus

Buses to places in Basse-Terre leave from the northwest side of town near the Gare Maritime de Bergevin. Buses to Gosier, Ste-Anne and St-François leave from Rue Dubouchage at the east side of the harbor in Pointe-à-Pitre.

St-François

POP 14,300

St-François is a town with two distinct identities. The west side of town is a sleepy provincial backwater that’s quite spread out, while the east side feels a lot like the small upscale marina that it is. The center of the action is the deep U-shaped harbor, which is lined with a handful of restaurants, hotels, boutiques and marina facilities. Just north of the marina there’s a golf course.

For active types, there’s a wide range of water sports on offer, from surfing and scuba diving to kitesurfing and snorkeling.

St-François is also a major jumping-off point for trips to Guadeloupe’s smaller islands.

Beaches

Plage des Raisins Clairs Beach

On the western outskirts of town, Plage des Raisins Clairs is not the most stunning beach on Grande-Terre but it’s safe for swimming. There’s a gradual slope, no drop-off, a long stretch of relatively shallow water and plenty of shade.

Activities

Paradoxe Croisières Boat Trips

(0590-88-41-73; Marina de St-François; adult/under 12yr €80/60) Runs day trips to the small islands of Petite Terre for a spot of iguana-watching, beach lounging, lunch and snorkeling. Boats leave at 8am and return to St-François at 5:30pm.

Sleeping

Sunset Surf Camp Guesthouse $$

(0590-21-51-10, 0690-41-66-69; www.sunsetsurfcamp.com; Route Touristique; s €40-70, d €76; ) Consistently rated highly by travelers, this efficiently run oasis about 2km west from the center sets the standard – well-organised rooms (but no air-con), a festive atmosphere, a pool, a tropical garden, enticing communal areas and charming owners. Reasonable rates, free bikes, good breakfasts (€10) and scrumptious dinners (twice weekly; €25) clinch the deal. Surfing lessons available.

La Maison Calebasse B&B $$$

(0690-34-07-77; www.lamaisoncalebasse.com; Ste Madeleine; d incl breakfast €179; ) Tricky to find, but well worth the search, this gleaming villa is nestled amid sugarcane fields about 2.5km north of St-François. Brigitte, your affable host, has applied all her flair to the decor; choose from the gîtes (rented by the week) and an exceptionally bright room with a handsomely designed bathroom. Dinner is €23. A bijou hideaway.

Hôtel Amaudo Hotel $$$

(0590-88-87-00; www.amaudo.fr; Anse à la Barque; d €145-155; ) This special little place is in the hamlet of Anse à la Barque, a short distance to the west of St-François itself. It’s a beautiful spot, with all of the communal areas attractively done in a colonial style and all 10 rooms having fantastic sea views and private outdoor areas. No beach, but the lovely pool offers adequate compensation.

Eating

Le Mabouya Dans La Bouteille Fusion $$$

(0590-21-31-14; www.lemabouya.fr; 17 Salines Est; mains €22-29; dinner Wed-Mon) Don’t make any other plans for the evening – this romantic restaurant is one to linger at. The all-wood surrounds boast a kind of rustic charm. Chefs fuse French, Creole and other ‘exotic’ flavors into healthful dishes that would delight the Yoga Journal crowd.

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