Cutting and Draping Party and Eveningwear by Dawn Cloake

Author:Dawn Cloake
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781849944151
Publisher: Pavilion Books
Published: 2016-09-11T16:00:00+00:00

left to right: Contoured block; Strapless block (no armhole) plus draped overlay on bust; Strapless block (no armhole), plus shoulder drape; Contoured block

PRINCESS-LINE DRESS BLOCK

The princess seams run from mid-shoulder or armhole to the hemline, following the body contours. Cut shorter for hip block or short dress block. The seams allow the hem to be widened evenly throughout the garment. The required hem width is divided between the side and panel line seams and centre back and front seams if not placed on a fold. Consider the limitations imposed by the fabric width when calculating amounts to be added to each seam, especially in floor length garments.

The princess line block has no waist seam, but horizontal seams can be introduced above and below the waist. This can be seen in the Empire line (here), the dress on here, the top on here and two of the jackets on here.

The number of seams running through the waist curve enable the waist tolerance to be evenly spread throughout the garment, creating a smooth effect.

Flare lines are shown on the block as a suggestion for increasing hem width. However, the dress can also be straight if provision is made for ‘walking’ or ‘stride’ room. Splits and vents are less attractive than in the one-piece block. Consider grown-on godets or godets in the seams (see here).

1 Extend one-piece dress block to length required.

2 Connect the shoulder and waist darts from mid-shoulder and through the bust point.

3 Draw flare lines from the skirt dart points to the hem.

4 Calculate hem width required. If in its straight version, the total hem width is 96cm (38″), it will be 48cm (19″) on the half pattern. To double this, mark a point 8cm (3⅛″) from each side of the side seams and panel seams.

5 Connect these points to the waist darts at least 10cm (4″) above the hip level to allow sufficient ease over hips. The waist can be further reduced through centre back and centre front when not placed on a fold.

Design note:

The vertical seams of the Princess line are flattering, giving an illusion of height. For eveningwear, the effect is even more dramatic in a floor length dress, whether widely flared or tapered and ending in a fishtail (see here).

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