Best Climbs Red Rocks by Jason D. Martin

Author:Jason D. Martin
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781493019649
Publisher: Falcon Guides

MESCALITO

It should surprise exactly no one that the Mescalito was named in the late 1960s. Jeff Lansing made the first ascent of this beautiful little cone of a mountain in 1968. And since then literally dozens of routes have gone up on the peak.

The descriptions of the routes here are broken into three major areas: North Fork Pine Creek, Central, and South Fork Pine Creek.

Types of Climbing Available: Multi-pitch face and crack climbing

Mescalito—North Fork Pine Creek

Approach: From the Pine Creek trail-head, follow the main trail for 20 to 30 minutes until it works its way up a red rock band near a giant boulder. Continue to follow the trail along the rock band until the trail cuts back down to the creek. The trail ends at a stance next to running water and the base of the Dark Shadows wall. Time: 40 minutes.

Sun Exposure: Dark Shadows and Chasing Shadows are in the shade all day.

1. Dark Shadows (5.8, II+–IV, 350– 1,000 feet, trad) Dark Shadows follows a beautiful corner system above the North Fork of Pine Creek. Historically most people only climbed to the top of the fourth pitch. But if you’re looking for adventure, a longer day, and a complex descent, it’s a lot of fun to climb Dark Shadows to a large ledge at the top of Perception Tower. Pitch 1: Step across the creek and work up the easy face, passing two bolts to an anchor (5.5, 70 feet). Pitch 2: Continue up the right-facing corner to a small roof and then traverse down and left to an anchor (5.6, 75 feet). Pitches 1 and 2 can be combined. Pitch 3: Blast up the beautiful corner to another bolted anchor. Beware, the crux is at the bottom of the pitch, and there have been a few broken ankles here (5.8, 110 feet). Pitch 4: Follow the crack system that arches out to another double-bolt anchor (5.8, 75 feet). Optional Descent: Many parties descend from this point. Rappel straight down Chasing Shadows with a single 60-meter rope. After two rappels, you will rejoin Dark Shadows for the final two rappels at the top of pitch 2. Expect your rope to get wet when you pull it from the final rappel. Pitch 5: Clip the bolt and then continue up. Climb through an easy roof and then follow the leftward-leaning crack system. Climb up the chimney or stay on the face to a ledge with a double-bolt anchor. As of this writing the bolts were rusty and old. A gear anchor is recommended (5.7, 120 feet). Pitch 6: Continue up the chimney and climb through a small roof. Find a bolt approximately 30 feet up and a piton approximately 60 feet up. Work up and left to a bolted anchor at the base of a crack (5.7, 125 feet). Pitch 7: Climb the crack, working up and right. Build an anchor at a varnished stance below another small roof. Pitch 8: Climb up right of the roof and work up a hand crack to a series of bushy ledges.

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