The Rough Guide to Texas & the Southwest (Travel Guide with Free eBook) by Rough Guides

Author:Rough Guides
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Travel, USA
Publisher: Apa Publications
Published: 2023-09-15T00:00:00+00:00

The High Road

The quickest route between Santa Fe and Taos follows US-84 as far as the Rio Grande, then follows the river northeast on Hwy-68. US-84 passes through the heartland of the northern pueblos, a cluster of tiny Tewa-speaking communities, but unless your visit coincides with a feast day, there’s little to see.

However, the circuitous “High Road” leaves US-68/84 a dozen miles north of Santa Fe, near Nambe Pueblo. Leading high into the wooded Sangre de Cristo Mountains, it passes a number of pueblos and Hispanic villages.

Santuario de Chimayó

Daily: May–Sept 9am–6pm; Oct–April 9am–5pm; Mass Mon–Sat 11am, Sun 10.30am & noon • http://holychimayo.us

The quaint mountain village of CHIMAYÓ, 25 miles north of Santa Fe where Hwy-503 meets Hwy-76, is the site of the 1816 Santuario de Chimayó. Known as the “Lourdes of America” for the devotion of its many pilgrims, this round-shouldered, twin-towered adobe beauty sits behind an enclosed courtyard; a pit in a side room holds the “holy dirt” for which the site is venerated.

Accommodation and eating The High Road

Hacienda Rancho de Chimayó Hwy-98; http://ranchodechimayo.com. Immediately across from the Rancho restaurant, and run by the same management, this peaceful B&B inn offers seven appealing en-suite rooms, arranged around a shared courtyard; several have their own patio space. $

Rancho de Chimayó Hwy-98; http://ranchodechimayo.com. The best traditional New Mexican restaurant in the state, serving superb flautas and a mouthwatering sopaipilla, stuffed with meat and chillis, on a lovely sun-drenched outdoor patio. $$

Taos

Still home to one of the longest-established Native American populations in the USA, though transformed by becoming first a Spanish colonial outpost and more recently a hangout for bohemian artists, Hollywood exiles and New Age dropouts, TAOS (which rhymes with “mouse”) is famous out of all proportion to its size. Not quite six thousand people live in its three component parts: Taos itself, around the plaza; sprawling Ranchos de Taos, three miles to the south; and the Indigenous community of Taos Pueblo, two miles north.

Beyond the usual unsightly highway sprawl, Taos is a delight to visit. Besides museums, galleries and stores, it still offers an unhurried pace and charm and the sense of a meeting place between Pueblo, Hispanic and American cultures. Its reputation as an artists’ colony began at the end of the nineteenth century, and new generations of artists and writers have “discovered” Taos ever since. English novelist D.H. Lawrence visited in the 1920s, while Georgia O’Keeffe arrived soon afterwards.

Taos plaza

The old Spanish plaza at the heart of Taos is now ringed by jewellery stores, art galleries and restaurants; all conform to the predominant Pueblo motif of rounded brown adobe. Specific sights are few – a small gallery in the Fonda de Taos holds a collection of nine sexy but amateurish paintings by D.H. Lawrence (aka the “Forbidden Art” collection), and the tree-filled square itself is often animated by guitar-toting buskers – but the surrounding streets are perfect for an aimless stroll.

Governor Bent House and Museum

117 Bent St • Daily: April–Oct 9am–5pm; Nov–March 10am–4pm • Charge • 505 758 2376

Bent

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