River of Dreams: A Journey through Milk River Country by Liz Bryan

Author:Liz Bryan
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Heritage House
Published: 2019-02-04T16:00:00+00:00

Hinsdale United Methodist church, built in 1902, lost its steeple to dry rot.

A community painted poster beside the highway.

Farther east along the Hi-Line, Hinsdale is affectionately regarded for its Sweet Memories teahouse, where a pot of Earl Grey has revived many a traveller. The town is also remembered (by me) for the kindness I received when a tire went flat and for the church that has lost its steeple. It sits on the ground beside the church door. What happened here? What caused such a beheading? I asked around: nothing dramatic. Just dry rot, steeple removed, roof sealed, steeple left waiting for repair funds. Hinsdale is also home to a well-known Montana potter, Gloria Jacobsen, of Klind Pottery, and there’s a large poster painted by the locals on a shed wall beside the highway illustrating life on the Hi-Line.

Hinsdale is also a travel hub with alluring back roads to the north and south. An aerial view (or a Google satellite shot) shows a very different landscape north and south of the highway here. South, the Milk flows along the edge of its valley, where the land wrinkles up into the mostly uncultivated highlands of the Larb Hills. North of town, only the land close to the serpentine Milk is green, with fields squeezed between even the tightest river curves, and the wide valley beyond has been cultivated for grain or hay, right up to the gnarled toes of the glacially scoured uplands that stretch north into Canada. There are three back road routes through this wilderness rangeland: Hinsdale North, Rock Creek, and Britsch Roads. With the help of an atlas and an acceptance of dusty back roads, one can travel all day through this huge and lonely stretch of Montana’s glaciated plains.

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