Practical Yurts: Building and Living in a Low Cost Alternative Structure by Steven Hatch

Author:Steven Hatch [Hatch, Steven]
Language: eng
Format: epub, azw3
Published: 2014-04-16T21:00:00+00:00

The picture shows me part way through putting the beams in place The plan called for using solid wood beams. If you are going to use those beams, you can’t get them off the shelf. The lumber company had to order them from the mill and it would take about 6 weeks to get them milled and delivered. I waited too long before getting this going and I didn’t have time to wait. Thus, I had to create the beams from 2x10’s. I created the 4x10’s by using two 2x10’s to sandwich a ½ inch OSB board to give me the correct width. I created the 6x10 by nailing and screwing four 2x10’s together. Lesson learned—plan further ahead.

Another lesson learned was that four of the posts supported 6x10 beams, yet the engineering called out for a 4x4 post. This created a problem at the top of the post where the beam was wider than the 4x4. The engineering called for adding thickness to the post to even out the width so that the Simpson brackets that held the beam to the post could be nailed on. I would have put a 6x6 post cap in the concrete and then the widths would have matched naturally. As a result, I ripped some 4x4 scraps to the right thickness to match to the thickness of the beams. It worked, but was just another adjustment that needed to be made.

The floor design was to sit on an octagonal set of beams. This was what the 6x10’s created. On the angled set of 6x10’s the engineering called for them to be square and to use some Simpson brackets to attach them. However, these brackets were not available in any of the stores, lumber stores, contractor wholesale lumber stores, quite literally—they weren’t available, even from Simpson. So, I ended up mitering the ends, which in the end made a much stronger beam structure. The Simpson brackets that I used were 135 degree angle brackets.

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