Only in Tokyo by Michael Ryan

Author:Michael Ryan
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: ebook
Publisher: Hardie Grant Publishing
Published: 2019-06-09T16:00:00+00:00

Ippo

Who recommended

Melinda Joe

Why

A classic izakaya with great fish dishes

What to ask for

Horse mackerel with shiso, leek and ginger

Where

2nd floor, 1-22-10 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku

When

6 pm–midnight daily

An izakaya is usually described as the Japanese version of a pub.

However, I like to think of them as more like restaurants that have less emphasis on the niceties of dining, and more on the atmosphere and food. Tokyo’s izakayas are generally hard to find and a little grimy around the edges, with a mix of customers from salarymen to creative types, older couples and younger groups. They have a good selection of booze, friendly service, and some of the tastiest food you can eat in the city. These are the kinds of places that Tokyoites frequent regularly.

Ippo is on the second floor of a nondescript building, its interior looking worn. While the place may seem less than exciting judging by appearances, the quality of the food on offer seals the deal.

The chefs behind the counter are convivial even when faced with language barriers from both sides. For those without a strong grasp of Japanese, the best option at almost any restaurant is to go for the omakase menu. This is a handy word to remember, essentially meaning a tasting menu that is based on the chef’s whim. The only downside is that it is often assumed that foreigners will not want the more challenging dishes on offer. If you are interested in them, it is good to learn how to say ‘I eat everything’ – ‘Nande mo tabemasu’. (A word of warning on dietary requirements: most places will be happy to cater to allergies, but through a mixture of language barriers and lack of exposure to customers with intolerances, it could be best to get something printed in Japanese to present at restaurants.)

The omakase menu at Ippo is just 2500 yen, fitting with another common theme among izakayas: dining at them is often very cheap. Most izakayas have a strong focus on seafood, but Ippo is all about seafood. Our meal started with mozuku seaweed, texturally challenging for many Western palates but delicious when you get used to it (slimy just isn’t in the Western repertoire, but is very popular with Japanese, as evidenced by the fermented soy beans called natto).

Our sashimi was high quality and well presented. Following this we had tempura sakura ebi (tiny prawns named after cherry blossoms because of their colour, formed into fritters), tempura saltwater eel, and salmon jerky, all very fresh and tasty. A tartare of horse mackerel, chopped in front of us with two deba (traditional Japanese knives) and mixed with shiso, leek and ginger, was a real highlight. Ippo’s food is all about quality produce prepared freshly and simply.

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