Moon Victoria & Vancouver Island by Andrew Hempstead

Author:Andrew Hempstead
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Avalon Publishing
Published: 2018-04-17T04:00:00+00:00

ACCOMMODATIONS

Accommodations and campsites in Ucluelet are somewhat limited, especially if you’re looking to stay somewhere inexpensive, so plan ahead by making reservations.

$50-100

If you’re looking at sharing inexpensive accommodations with an younger, outdoorsy crowd, reserve a bed at C&N Backpackers (2081 Peninsula Rd., 250/726-7416, www.cnnbackpackers.com, mid-Apr.-late Oct., dorms $25, $65 s or d), a rambling three story house with a large backyard that extends all the way down to the water just before reaching town. The lower floor is set aside for a large communal kitchen, while the middle floor has a lounge area and couple of private rooms, while the top floor is divided into male and female dorms.

The Broken Group Islands

These 100 or so forested islands in the mouth of Barkley Sound, south of Ucluelet, once held First Nations villages and some of the first trading posts on the coast. Now they’re inhabited only by wildlife and visited primarily by campers paddling through the archipelago in canoes and kayaks. The islands offer few beaches, so paddlers come ashore in the many sheltered bays.

Marinelife abounds in the cool and clear waters: Seals, porpoises, and gray whales are present year-round. Birdlife is also prolific: Bald eagles, blue herons, and cormorants are permanent residents, and large numbers of loons and Canada geese stop by on their spring and fall migration routes.

The archipelago extends almost 15 kilometers (9 miles) out to sea from Sechart, the starting point for kayakers. The protected islands of Hand, Gibraltar, Dodo, and Willis all hold campsites and are good destinations for novice paddlers. Farther out, the varying sea conditions make a higher level of skill necessary. Predictably, a westerly wind blows up early each afternoon through summer, making paddling more difficult.

The best way to reach the Broken Group Islands is aboard the MV Frances Barkley (250/723-8313 or 800/663-7192, www.ladyrosemarine.com) from Port Alberni or Ucluelet. Based in Port Alberni, this sturdy vessel departs Alberni Harbour Quay (8am Mon., Wed., and Fri. June-Sept.), dropping kayakers at Sechart, the site of a whaling station and now home to Sechart Lodge (book in conjunction with the tour boat; $190 s, $315 d, including meals; no children under age 14). Originally an office building for a local forestry company, the lodge was barged to the site and converted to basic but comfortable guest rooms and a restaurant. The Frances Barkley then continues to Ucluelet, departing that village at 2pm and making another stop at Sechart before returning to Port Alberni. In July and August, an additional Sunday sailing departs Port Alberni at 8am, stopping at Sechart and returning directly to Port Alberni. The one-way fare between Port Alberni and Sechart is $40; between Ucluelet and Sechart it’s $31.

The company that operates the boat also rents kayaks ($45-65 per day), which are left at Sechart so you don’t have to pay a transportation charge. If you bring your own kayak, the transportation charge is $20-25 one-way. The trip out on this boat is worthwhile just for the scenery, with the Ucluelet sailing passing right through the heart of the archipelago.

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