Gunsmithing--The AR-15 Volume 2 by Patrick Sweeney

Author:Patrick Sweeney [Sweeney, Patrick]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: F+W Media

EXTRACTOR

Wipe the extractor clean, and scrub the carbon and gunk out of the hook. Check the hook by rubbing it against the heel of your hand. You should have the impressions of “kitten teeth” from the corners of the extractor. If you do not get that feeling, and this is a high-mileage extractor, you may want to swap it out for a new one. Then again, extractors pretty much work until they break, so you can leave it alone if the bolt it goes into is still serviceable.

Look at the extractor spring. It should be un-bent, and have a little plastic insert in it. Ideally, the insert is black. Earlier colors of inserts were lighter in color (white, tan, red, blue) and offer less extractor tensioning than the black does. The earliest ARs (and M16A1s) lacked the insert altogether.

The current vogue is a gold-colored spring, the stiffest one the army authorizes. If your rifle has an un-mangled spring and a black insert and works fine the way it is, there is no need to go tearing it apart to put in a “better” spring.

But if you’ve been having extraction/ejection issues, replacing them is prudent.

Also, you should have an external extractor booster. The best is the D-Fender, wedge/axe shaped, and designed specifically for the job. (Match the curve of the D-Fender to the curve of the extractor.) When it came time to pony up, the government did not want to spend the money to buy a designed, trademarked part, so they simply bought a gazillion rubber “O” rings from an industrial supplier. Those donuts go around the extractor spring and greatly increase the extractor tension. (The AR system has been historically under-tensioned in the extractor.)

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