Counter Intelligence: Where to Eat in the Real Los Angeles by Gold Jonathan

Author:Gold, Jonathan [Gold, Jonathan]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: St. Martin's Press
Published: 2000-12-01T00:00:00+00:00

LA CABAÑITA

3447 VERDUGO RD., GLENDALE ; (818) 957-2711. DAILY, 8 A.M.—10 P.M.

La Cabañita, on the mountainous edge of Glendale, is the clean, well-lighted place all suburban Mexican joints should aspire to be: basic, but never less than pleasant. The tomatillo salsa is fine. The dining room is decorated with woven wall-hangings that depict either flowers or red chiles. A photograph of Liz Taylor and Larry Fortensky is prominently displayed on a far wall, which may be the most impressive bit of celebrity you’ll see this close to the city of Montrose.

The menu, vaguely Mexico City/cosmopolitan in flavor, is loaded with things like entomatadas and mole de olla, which turn out to be basically chicken enchiladas and a slightly spicy beef soup, respectively, but which sound ineffably chefly and exotic. The tacos, made with chewy, freshly made corn tortillas, are stuffed with a sweetly spiced beef picadillo studded with almonds and raisins, with dryish fried pork, or with chopped beef and melted cheese. The chips are terrific, though the chiles rellenos are not.

But even if there’s little here to challenge the palate of Liz or Larry, La Cabañita does have some interesting food: a musky, complex green mole, alive with a dozen unfamiliar pounded barks and seeds; a soothing chicken soup; delicious long-cooked pork chops smothered soul-food-style in a smoky gravy made with pasilla chiles; roasted poblano chiles stuffed with a sweet, intricately spiced forcemeat. Somebody has obviously thought about this food.

Download

Copyright Disclaimer:
This site does not store any files on its server. We only index and link to content provided by other sites. Please contact the content providers to delete copyright contents if any and email us, we'll remove relevant links or contents immediately.