Saltwater in the Blood: Surfing, Natural Cycles and the Sea's Power to Heal by Easkey Britton

Author:Easkey Britton [Britton, Easkey]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Biography & Autobiography, Personal Memoirs
ISBN: 9781786785817
Google: T1s9EAAAQBAJ
Publisher: Watkins Media
Published: 2021-09-14T23:28:34.509449+00:00

I was watching you and all those surfers out there today and I got it. I get what it’s all about. It’s about being available. Making yourself available to that energy and force and then being able to let it go if it doesn’t work out.

There were two guys on bikes watching, and they were cocky assholes. One of them said, “Can you believe these stupid guys are sitting out here, what the fuck are they doing, freezing their asses off for what?!” It was so judgemental. These guys do not have a clue what’s happening out there. I don’t have any experience out there but I can see it, see what part of it matters – the gift of the moment when the wave comes and there’s nobody else around and you get to ride it for as long as you can and you get joy from that. You made yourself available.

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