Best Climbs Denver and Boulder by Stewart M. Green

Author:Stewart M. Green
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9780762767519
Publisher: Falcon Guides

THIRD FLATIRON

The East Face of the 1,300-foot-high Third Flatiron is the most popular easy climb in Boulder and Colorado. It’s easy to access, offers lots of fun climbing, has stunning views from the summit, and is simply the best beginner route anywhere. It was first climbed in 1906 by Floyd and Earl Millard. The East Face route has been climbed in roller skates and naked, has been soloed in less than ten minutes, and is climbed by thousands every year.

Climb the popular Third Flatiron during the week to avoid the crowds. Despite the route’s easy climbing, do not take it lightly. Many accidents have occurred on it. The climb has little protection, is dangerous if wet or snowy, is difficult to retreat from, and the rappels off the backside are difficult for beginners. Be prepared when climbing it by carrying extra clothes, snacks, and water. Also, get off the summit on summer afternoons if thunderstorms are approaching. Bring a 200-foot (60-meter) rope and a small rack with sets of Stoppers and cams to 2 inches.

The Third, as locals call it, is closed from February 1 to July 31 for nesting falcons. Check with the Boulder Open Space office at Chautauqua Park for current closures.

Finding the crag: From US 36 or South Broadway, drive west on Baseline Road toward Flagstaff Mountain. Turn left into Chautauqua Park and park in the lot. Hike south up Mesa Trail along the paved Bluebell Road (closed to traffic) to Bluebell Shelter. From the shelter, follow the Royal Arch Trail to the Third Flatiron Trail to the northeast corner of the Flatiron’s east face and the start of the route.

Descent: Descend from the Third Flatiron’s summit by rappelling. Three rappels with a single rope or two rappels with double ropes from fixed eyebolts lead down the steep west face. The eyebolts have attached rappel directions showing distance to the next station. Rappel 1: Rappel 40 feet over an overhang to the South Bowl. Rappel 2: Rappel 50 feet from the south edge of the bowl to Friday’s Folly Ledge, a narrow, exposed ledge on a vertical face. Be sure to knot the end of your rope to ensure you do not rappel off its end. Traverse west from an eyebolt along the ledge to another eyebolt and the third rappel. Rappel 3: Rappel 70 feet west to the West Bench. Do not rappel from the first eyebolt on the ledge without double ropes; it’s a 140-foot semi-free rappel to the ground from there. After rappelling to the base, scramble north and follow a trail down the north side of the formation back to the approach trail.

Third Flatiron

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