The Theory of Garment-Pattern Making by W. H. Hulme

Author:W. H. Hulme
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Read Books
Published: 2011-01-15T00:00:00+00:00

CHAPTER VIII

APPLYING THE MEASUREMENTS TO THE PATTERN

THE necessary measures having been taken, analysed, and understood, how shall they be applied to the pattern? The method, or system, employed will depend very much on the student’s training: his teacher may have insisted that one method, or system, was better than others. He may have been instructed in the mere mechanical working-out of a system, without much guidance in the principles he was applying. On the other hand, he may have been trained to understand the principles of fitting and draping by a teacher who regarded the principles involved as important as the method by which they are applied to the pattern.

(1) In the first place, the student should learn what a system can, and cannot, do. No system is entirely foolproof. Just as measurement demands intelligence and care, so the application of measures requires personal skill and an understanding of first principles. Any system, no matter how simple or mechanical, presupposes a man capable of using it intelligently.

(2) A system will not concern itself with style features, as such. So far as the trunk of the body is concerned, a system operates between the centre-back and centre-front construction lines. The construction of any particular type of front1 is a matter of mere arithmetic and drawing: it belongs to the purely artistic side of the pattern. The run of a front; the size and shape of a lapel; the placing of pockets or other style features—these are not concerned with the anatomy of the figure. This will simplify the matter, and show, also, the part played by drawing, pure and simple, in the garment.

(3) There exists a traditional idea that every point and part of a garment may be fixed by a system. It is necessary to repeat that a system fixes only a few points, but these are important in that they are salient anatomical points. A system is a way of applying measures intelligently. Measures are taken on certain lines of the body. These lines are reproduced on the draft, and are called construction lines.

The length measurements will present no difficulty. The girths, plus tolerance, will raise no problem. If a rectangle be drawn, as wide as half the breast girth plus tolerance, and as long as the garment, then a start has been made. Suppressions and increments are usually effected by seams. In a normal figure the waist girth is less than the breast, but the seat girth is greater. Then on the waist-line some material is removed; on the seat-line material is added by overlaying parts. So far, progress is easy and does not make great demands. Then comes the fixing of points and parts in the neck and shoulder section. No direct measure has been taken for scye depth, yet a system will give this important point. No neck girth was measured, but a system will automatically give one. The position of the front of scye has not been measured, yet it is placed by a system. No shoulder-height or scye-girth measurement has been made; yet here they are.

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