The Rough Guide to Bangkok by Rough Guides

Author:Rough Guides
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Travel, Bangkok
Publisher: Apa Publications
Published: 2018-11-19T10:10:15+00:00

Amphawa

The district town of AMPHAWA is smaller and more atmospheric than Samut Songkhram, retaining original charm alongside modern development. Its old neighbourhoods hug the banks of the Mae Klong River and the Khlong Amphawa tributary, the wooden homes and shops facing the water and accessed either by boat or on foot along one of the waterfront walkways. The tradition of holding a floating market on the canal near Wat Amphawan has been revived for weekending Bangkokians and tourists, with traders setting up at around 9am (11am on Fri) and staying out until around 9pm every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Amphawa’s main street, Thanon Prachaset, runs west for about a kilometre from a T-junction with Highway 325 (the road from Damnoen Saduak to Samut Songkhram), before hitting the floating market at Khlong Amphawa (about 200m north of its confluence with the Mae Klong River), then Wat Amphawan and the Rama II Memorial Park.

Rama II Memorial Park

5min walk west of Amphawa market and khlong • Park and Museum daily 8.30am–5pm • B30

Rama II was born in Amphawa (his mother’s home town) in 1767 and is honoured with a memorial park and temple erected on the site of his probable birthplace, beside the Mae Klong River on the western edge of Amphawa town. Rama II, or Phra Buddhalertla Naphalai as he is known in Thai, is remembered as a cultured king who wrote poems and plays, and the museum at the heart of the Rama II Memorial Park displays lots of rather esoteric kingly memorabilia in Thai-style houses, including a big collection of nineteenth-century musical instruments and a gallery of khon masks used in traditional theatre.

On the eastern edge of the park, Wat Amphawan is graced with a statue of the king and decorated with murals that depict scenes from his life, including a behind-the-altar panorama of nineteenth-century Bangkok, with Ratanakosin Island’s Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Sanam Luang still recognizable to modern eyes.

Amphawa Chaipattananurak

On the west bank of Khlong Amphawa, a 5min walk north of Amphawa market • amphawanurak.com • Mon–Thurs 8.30am–4pm; Fri–Sun 8.30am–9pm • Free

The Amphawa Chaipattananurak centre was established to conserve the cultural heritage of the town, and is divided into five areas, each of which provides interesting information about the traditional lifestyle of the region. The Community Exhibition Room reflects the way of life of local communities, the Agricultural Demonstration Farm features many of the local fruit trees, and the Nakhawarang Cultural Ground is used for performances of traditional music, puppet shows and cooking demonstrations. There are also community shops selling local products and souvenirs, and an atmospheric coffee shop and tea house beside the canal with a retro interior.

Pinsuwan bencharong showroom and workshop

About 1km (15min walk) east of Amphawa Chaipattananurak, just west of H325 (look for the P Ben sign in front of a compound of traditional houses) 034 751322 • Showroom daily 8am–noon & 1–5pm, workshop Mon–Sat 8am–noon & 1–5pm • Free

The Pinsuwan bencharong workshop specializes in reproductions of famous antique bencharong ceramics, the exquisite five-coloured pottery

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