The Ride of Life by Laura Andon
Author:Laura Andon [Andon, Laura]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Surfing, Motivation
ISBN: 9781742983097
Publisher: Global Publishing Group
Published: 2013-04-12T00:00:00+00:00
Catching a Wave
Begin paddling as the wave is starting to peak. Paddle hard and stroke deep into the water; you want to catch it. If you position your board on a slight angle away from the breaking lip, you will have a greater chance of going across the open face of a wave. Timing is a major factor. If you try to stand early, you will miss the wave, and if you are too slow, the wave will throw you forward. Practice. Learn how to read each wave and where to position yourself.
Wiping Out
Visualise where your board is going to land and try to fall away from it. Try and avoid fighting against the turbulence underwater, your lungs can hold more air than you think and by being calm you can pop up without losing too much energy. Also be aware that a stretched legrope can slingshot back and hit you in the head with very little warning. Cover your head as you pop up from the water to avoid any collisions. If you are in shallow water or over a reef break, try to bellyflop instead of diving.
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