The Big Walks of Great Britain by David Bathurst

Author:David Bathurst
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Summerdale
Published: 2011-07-26T00:00:00+00:00

The next section is quite magnificent. Leaving Thwaite, you head north-eastwards, uphill, to reach the hamlet of Kisdon, then just before Kisdon Cottage you bear left and begin a tremendous walk, initially just east of north and then swinging north-westwards, towards Keld. You proceed along a limestone shelf amongst trees, bracken and grass, while to your right is a steep slope leading down to the river Swale. A little less than half a mile short of Keld and just beyond Birk Hill, a detour to the right takes you to the beautiful Kisdon Force. The Way does not go quite as far as the centre of Keld, but turns right and drops steeply to cross the Swale and then climb, again steeply, up the other side with the spectacular falls of East Gill Force to your right. For the drop down to the Swale and the climb back up again, you will be overlapping with Wainwright’s Coast to Coast Walk, described elsewhere in this book. Many walkers will, however, wish to detour to Keld (115.4).

Originally, Keld was a Viking settlement, and its name comes from an old Norse word for a well or a spring; it is not only a picturesque place, its sturdy cottages of grey stone blending beautifully with the surrounding hills and woodland, but it has a timeless and enduring quality which is somehow reassuring. Accommodation is available, although with no “night life” in the village to speak of, the best entertainment may be the exchange of experiences with other walkers. Indeed, one of the pleasures of walking the Pennine Way is the fellowship amongst those attempting it, and from casual meetings along the Way can come friendships and possibly even romance. The unattached traveller, having taken a shine to a similarly eligible walker met whilst walking the Way, may repair contentedly to a hostel bed that night to enjoy dreams of a true walkers’ wedding, followed by a honeymoon spent bagging a few dozen Munros together. Sadly, they may well find conversation that flowed so naturally on the magnificent heights of Pen-y-Ghent or by the sparkling cascade of Hardraw rather harder to come by in the British Home Stores cafeteria in Reading.

Keld to Baldersdale (14.2 miles by direct route – three miles extra for Bowes loop) via Tan Hill

ENJOY: Tan Hill Inn, God’s Bridge, Bowes

Having passed East Gill Force, you wave goodbye to Coast to Coast walkers, who turn right to cross the stream just above the Force, while you turn left and proceed north-westwards past the buildings of East Stonesdale, then heading just west of north, you gradually climb out of the dale onto the moors. For a while the going is excellent, and there are lovely views back to Keld and its surrounds. Having crossed Lad Gill you swing north-eastwards, still gradually climbing, and although the Way hereabouts is sometimes unclear and a little juicy underfoot, you will be spurred on by the thought of reaching the Tan Hill Inn. At length it comes

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