Frommer's Morocco by Darren Humphrys
Author:Darren Humphrys
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
Published: 2010-03-09T16:00:00+00:00
3 Dades Gorge & Dades Valley
From humble beginnings, the Oued Dadès carved a trail south through the High Atlas mountains before veering west to form the Dadès Valley. With the semidesert to one side and often snowcapped peaks on the other, the journey alongside the Oued Dadès from the top of its gorge to its spring-fed palm groves is one of the most tranquil and scenic in Morocco.
Getting There
The highway between Ouarzazate and Er Rachidia/Erfoud passes through Boumalne du Dadès, the main transport hub of the Dadès Valley, as well as the town of El Kelaâ M’Gouna and the village of Skoura.
By Bus Buses depart daily for the region from Casablanca (12–13 hr.; 185dh–205dh), Er Rachidia (4–5 hr.; 45dh–60dh), Erfoud (5–6 hr.; 65dh–85dh), Tinerhir (2–3 hr.; 25dh–35dh), and Zagora (5–6 hr.; 65dh–85dh).
By Grand Taxi There are always grands taxis running the short distances between Ouarzazate and Skoura, Skoura and El Kelaa M’gouna, El Kelaa M’gouna and Boulmalne du Dadès, and Boulmalne du Dadès and Tinerhir. Fares range from 20dh to 50dh. Grands taxis and minibuses run fairly frequently throughout the day from Boulmalne du Dadès up the Dadès Gorge to Msemrir, the village at the top of the gorge.
Visitor Information
In Boulmalne du Dadès is the Bureau des Guides, next to Cafe des Fleurs at the west end of the town center ( 066 7/593292; [email protected]). Born and bred in Boulmalne du Dadès and an official guide since 1995, Hamou Aït Lhou is a fountain of knowledge on the geology and culture of the Dadès. He can arrange all manner of outings and treks (for example, a full-day trek at the Dadès Gorge, including lunch with a Berber family, for 250dh per person), or can simply impart some knowledge for those going their own way. The small bureau is open daily when he’s not out in the field.
Fast Facts The main Tinerhir-Ouarzazate highway runs through the small town center of Boulmalne du Dadès as avenue Mohammed V. Here you’ll find a branch of Banque Populaire ( 052 4/808623) with a bureau de change and ATM, open Monday to Friday 8:15am to 3:45pm.
Pharmacie du Dadès ( 052 4/807683) is opposite the mosque, open Monday to Saturday 7:30am to 1pm, 3 to 8pm, and 9:30pm to 1am. For Internet access, go next door to Taziri Net, open daily 9am to 11pm.
What to See & Do
Dadès Gorge This is a narrow, winding, and simply spectacular gorge, and the 35km (22-mile) drive along its southern section, is one of the best in Morocco. At times the gorge can be wide and low, but at other times the cliff face is up to .5km (1/3 mile) deep. The gorge narrows considerably near the village of Aït Oudinar (25km/16 miles from the Boulmalne du Dadès), and the road ascends rapidly in a series of hairpin bends before rejoining the river. After passing through a very narrow and picturesque section, the gorge opens up to continue into the High Atlas. There are plenty of viewpoints along the way, and the villages dotted along its path are just as scenic as the gorge itself.
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