The Fundamental Techniques of Classic Pastry Arts by Judith Choate

Author:Judith Choate
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Abrams
Published: 2009-06-15T00:00:00+00:00

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Starchbound custards are cooked over direct heat or baked in a moderate oven and made even more stable by the addition of a starch. Unlike stirred custards, they are cooked to temperatures above 82°C (180°F), as they must be boiled for at least 2 minutes to eliminate the raw starch taste, destroy the alpha-amylase enzyme, and thicken to the desired consistency. They may be made with or without the addition of eggs. When eggs are a component, they are beaten together with the starch and sugar before cooking. The starch coats the eggs and prevents curdling. Starchbound custards are denser than the other custards and can withstand higher and more prolonged cooking periods. Overheating may cause the corners of the pan to burn, and both overheating and overstirring might cause a starchbound custard to become runny; undercooking results in an unpleasant raw starch taste. As with stirred custards, the cooking time and stirring process is crucial to a perfect ending.

Crème pâtissière, or pastry cream, is the primary starchbound custard. It is not meant to be served on its own, but rather to be used as a filling for cakes, fruit tarts, or pastries or as the basis for other dessert preparations. It is the workhorse of custards, an all-purpose cream used frequently throughout French pastry making, most famously as a filling for Napoleons and pâte à choux. It is also the base for dessert soufflés, crème légère (pastry cream lightened with whipped cream), crème Chiboust (pastry cream lightened with beaten egg whites and stabilized with gelatin), and frangipane (pastry cream combined with almond cream).

In the pastry kitchen, pastry cream powder is often used as a thickener for pastry cream; it consists of cornstarch with vanilla flavoring and, occasionally, yellow food coloring to ensure brightness in the finished pastry cream. It is generally available from cake and bakery supply stores; if it is unavailable, cornstarch can be used as a substitute.

Some points to remember about crème pâtissière are:

It is very fragile and susceptible to bacterial growth. Extreme caution should be taken to avoid contamination.

Use only pasteurized milk and be sure to bring it to a boil.

Make sure that the eggs are fresh and the eggshells are clean, as residue on the shell can contaminate the eggs when they are cracked open.

Cook the pastry cream for at least 2 minutes after it has come to a boil.

After cooking is completed, cool the cream as quickly as possible by transferring it to a shallow container.

Always refrigerate pastry cream until needed.

Some common flavorings include:

Chocolate

Rum

Coffee

Praline

Baked Custards

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