Fodor’s Venice by Fodor’s Travel Guides

Author:Fodor’s Travel Guides [Fodor’s Travel Guides]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Fodor’s
Published: 2022-08-09T00:00:00+00:00

NEIGHBORHOOD SNAPSHOT

TOP EXPERIENCES

Shop the Rialto markets: Fresh fruit, vegetables, and fish abound at markets by the Rialto Bridge.

Admire churches: 15th-century stunners like Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari grace the neighborhoods.

Sample cicheti (finger foods) at a bacaro (bar): Try wine and shareable plates at the many bars and restaurants near Rialto.

Peruse stellar museums: Ca’ Pesaro will entertain you for an afternoon with Kandinsky and Matisse; the Scuole will take you back through Venetian history.

Relax on the campo (square): Watch the world go by from the many open squares in these neighborhoods.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

To do San Polo justice requires at least the better part of a morning. Come early to beat the crowds for food shopping at the Rialto markets; they close at 1 pm. Next, spend an hour at Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, which contains some of the most important art in Venice. Another hour should be devoted to the two floors of floor-to-ceiling Tintorettos in the Scuola Grande di San Rocco. Leave a few minutes to see the Scuola Grande San Giovanni Evangelista.

In Santa Croce, the church of San Stae is well worth a 15- to 20-minute detour, and fans of modern art will want to spend an hour in the collections in Ca’ Pesaro. Any visitor who wants to see the real Venice should idle in Campo San Giacomo dall’Orio.

GETTING HERE

If you arrive by bus or car to Piazzale Roma, you will be in Santa Croce. On foot, you can walk farther into Santa Croce and, still farther along, San Polo, by following the signs pointing toward Rialto, Frari, or San Marco. To reach San Polo from the train station or Piazzale Roma, take the #1 vaporetto to Rialto Market or San Tomà (get off at Riva de Biasio or San Stae for Santa Croce). From San Marco, just walk over the Rialto Bridge. If you arrive by tour bus at Tronchetto, take the #2 to Piazzale Roma.

PAUSE HERE

Giardini Papadopoli. On the Grand Canal between Piazzale Roma and the train station is this lush garden, complete with a small playground for children. wVaporetto: Piazzale Roma, Ferrovia.

Campo San Polo. Sit on the benches in the shade under the trees in the square with their low, broad branches, a welcome refuge on a hot day. wVaporetto: San Silvestro, San Tomà.

VIEWFINDER

Campo San Stae. Stand on the square looking across the Grand Canal to Palazzo Barbarigo, the palace facing you at the corner of a side canal. You can see several large patches of frescoes on the facade, painted by Camillo Bellini in the second half of the 1500s, a rare example of what was once common exterior decoration. wVaporetto: San Stae.

Sotoportego dei Oresi. Walk along the covered passageway stretching between the Rialto Bridge and Ruga Vecchia S. Giovanni. Admire the restored frescoes in the vaults of the ceiling and what were once storerooms for the gold used by the oresi, or goldsmiths, whose workshops are now bars and stores. wVaporetto: Rialto Mercato.

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