Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems, Volume 2 by Tony Candela

Author:Tony Candela [Candela, Tony]
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781613252666
Publisher: CarTech Inc.

Project 9: Upgrading the Alternator

These GM large-case alternators from Iraggi Alternator are shown from the rear: AD-244 (left) and CS-244 (right). Both are three-wire design. Although both units have the exact same stator and rotor poles, the unit on the left offers several benefits; an internal fan is the most obvious. The AD-244 features a much more modern regulator design.

Yes, even a vehicle equipped with a 140-amp alternator and a 4-AWG charge lead can benefit from an upgrade. I assume you are starting with less. Either way, the process is the same.

These are the components you need:

•Iraggi Alternator AD-244 alternator

•JL Audio 1/0-AWG power and ground wire

•Rockford Fosgate RFFANL fuse holder

•(1) 250-amp ANL fuse

•(1) 1/0-AWG alternator boot

•Associated terminals and connectors

I prefer a three-wire alternator over a one-wire alternator for numerous reasons, the most important being that it is switched on when the key is in the IGN position. A one-wire unit requires that the alternator reaches a certain engine speed before it begins to charge, typically more than 1,200 rpm. No, a three-wire alternator isn’t any harder to install; it’s actually quite simple.

I’m using the newer-style Iraggi alternator unit on my installation because it’s simply gorgeous, and it mounts right up to my existing bracket no differently than the CS-style unit would. Both are rated at 220 amps maximum and 175 amps at idle. No sense in messing around when you’re upgrading! Given the alternator’s current output capabilities and the fact that the battery is in the rear of my Olds (18 feet of wire, to be exact), this installation requires that I upgrade the charge lead from 4 AWG to 1/0 AWG. Yes, that’s 1/0 AWG.

Mount alternator. As shown, the AD-244 fits right into the alternator bracket I fabbed up for the CS series. For illustration purposes, I left the 4-AWG charge lead, as well as the 4-AWG ground lead to the frame, for now.

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