Frommer's EasyGuide to Paris 2019 by Anna E. Brooke

Author:Anna E. Brooke
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: FrommerMedia
Published: 2018-10-10T16:00:00+00:00

Stairs in Montmartre.

Musée de Montmartre MUSEUM The main reason to visit this small museum is to get an inkling of what Montmartre really was like back in the days when Picasso, Toulouse-Lautrec, Van Gogh, and others were painting and cavorting up here on the butte. While there are few examples of the artists’ works here, plenty of photos, posters, and even films document the neighborhood’s famous history, from the days when its importance was mainly religious to the glory days of the Paris Commune, and finally to the artistic boom in the 19th and 20th centuries. Next to an original poster of Jane Avril by Toulouse-Lautrec, for example, you’ll see a photo of the real Jane Avril, as well as other Montmartre cabaret legends like Aristide Bruant and La Goulue. The few paintings and drawings by famed painters like Utrillo and Modigliani are supplemented by works by lesser-known Montmartrois, like Steinlen, Léandre, and de Belay. The 17th-century house that shelters the museum was at various times home of Auguste Renoir and Raoul Dufy, as well as Susan Valadon and her son, Maurice Utrillo, whose studio can now be visited. Surrounded by gardens, the site offers a lovely view of the last scrap of the Montmartre vineyard. English-language audioguides are a big help here. On a sunny day, stop for coffee in the garden cafe—it’s a heavenly setting.

12 rue Cortot, 18th arrond. www.museedemontmartre.fr. 01-49-25-89-39. Admission 9.50€ adults, 7.50€ ages 18–25, 5.50€ ages 10–17, free for children 9 and under. Daily Apr–Sep 10am–7pm; Oct–Mar 10am–6pm. Métro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt.

République, Bastille & Eastern Paris (11th & 12th Arrondissements)

While you can’t really point to any major tourist attractions in this area, this part of town is seriously up-and-coming, and has great nightlife and clothing stores, not to mention a booming restaurant scene. Some important historical sites are also here: The French Revolution was brewed in the workshops of the Faubourg St-Antoine and was ignited at the Place de la Bastille. The former stomping grounds of the medieval Knights Templar, the recently remodeled Place de la République is a potent symbol of the French Republic.

Atelier des Lumières IMMERSIVE MUSEUM If you’ve ever watched a light show projected onto the facade of a building, you’ll know just how impressive they can be. But few shows can top this brand new museum’s offerings: Set in a converted foundry, the entire indoor space—floors, walls, and ceilings—is one monumental, moving canvas. Around 140 projectors and a high-tech sound system transport you smack-dab into famous paintings, as if you’ve shrunk and become part of the work. The first space covers the history of art (the opening show was dedicated to Gustav Klimt), the second, smaller in size but no less impressive, is for today’s emerging digital artists. Because of flashing lights and the overwhelming nature of the exhibits, people with epilepsy and kids age 2 and under should not visit.

38 rue St Maur, 11th arrond. www.atelier-lumieres.com. 01-80-98-46-00. 14.50€ adults, 11.50€ students 12–25, 9.50€ ages 5–25. Sun–Thurs 10am–6pm; Fri–Sat 10am–10pm.

Parc Zoologique de Paris

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