Thank You for Smoking by Disbrowe Paula

Author:Disbrowe, Paula [Disbrowe, Paula]
Language: eng
Format: azw3, epub
Publisher: Potter/Ten Speed/Harmony/Rodale
Published: 2019-03-25T16:00:00+00:00

WILD MUSHROOM RAMEN

Traditional ramen is made from a broth that’s lovingly tended for hours on end. Tare is the seasoning, or flavor bomb, that transforms the basic broth into, say, a miso or tonkotsu ramen, and it can be varied in infinite ways. In this recipe, tare infuses a mushroom broth enriched with nut milk. Wood-fired wild mushrooms, pungent aromatics like gochujang, a custardy soft-boiled egg, and springy noodles create a vegetarian riff that will satisfy any ramen craving.

SERVES 4 GENEROUSLY

1 cup (95 g) dried mushrooms (preferably shiitake)

4 cups (1.4 L) hot water

2 pounds (900 g) mixed fresh wild mushrooms, such as king trumpet, shiitake, porcini, and maitake

Vegetable oil, for drizzling

One 2-inch (5 cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated

1 bunch garlic chives, trimmed and sliced into 1-inch lengths

4 green onions, white and light green parts, thinly sliced

¼ cup (60 ml) mushroom shoyu or soy sauce, or regular soy sauce, plus more as needed

1 cup (240 g) white miso

1 tablespoon fermented Korean red chile paste (gochujang), plus more as desired for heat

2 cups (475 ml) unsweetened cashew or almond milk

4 eggs, at room temperature

1 pound (450 g) fresh or dried ramen noodles, or other noodles of your choice

Shichimi togarashi, for garnish

Sambal oelek, for garnish

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high. When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again and place a grill basket over direct heat.

While the grill heats, combine the dried mushrooms and hot water in a small bowl and set aside. In a large bowl, toss the wild mushrooms with enough olive oil to coat. When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the wild mushrooms in the heated grill basket and cook until charred and crisp on both sides, 6 to 7 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl.

Remove the rehydrated mushrooms from the water and thinly slice, reserving all of the water. In a Dutch oven, heat 1 tablespoon of oil over medium-high heat. Add the ginger, half of the garlic chives, and green onions and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the rehydrated mushrooms, shoyu, miso, the reserved mushroom water, and the gochujang, turn the heat to medium-low, and simmer for about 10 minutes, until the flavors have melded. Stir in the nut milk and cook until heated through.

Bring a pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the eggs, turn the heat to low, and gently simmer for 6 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove the eggs and run them under cold water for about 30 seconds to stop the cooking process. When the eggs are cool enough to handle, peel them and set aside.

Using the same pot, return the water to a boil over high heat.

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