Something Old, Something New by Tamar Adler & Mindy Dubin

Author:Tamar Adler & Mindy Dubin
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Scribner

What is true of progress in rice cookery is also true of noodles—today widely called “pasta.” There is no question pastasciutta (dried pasta) and fresh egg pappardelle and linguine and tagliatelle are made and treated more intelligently today than a century ago, when cooks followed Mrs. Beeton’s rule of leaving “1 1/2 to 1 3/4 hour to boil the macaroni.” And gummed the result briefly before spitting it out, one is tempted to fastidiously add.

Here are two pasta recipes from earlier days that deserve to be treated with the Italian terseness that we now recognize as the Right Way.

With the five ingredients listed in Richard Olney’s 1970 The French Menu Cookbook—“1 pound short macaroni; salted boiling water, cooking liquid from daube [stew]; freshly grated nutmeg; freshly grated Parmesan”—a classic macaronade rivals riz à la Georgienne for pithiness. It is moreover a frugal scheme, as a macaronade is an afterthought of any stew. Its making should follow the theory of Patricia Wells, who writes in her Bistro Cooking: “To prepare an authentic macaronade, you must first prepare a meat stew, either an estouffade or a daube . . .” It is a wise, unquestioning plan. You must make a stew, and even eat some of it, to get to what lies on its other side. Macaronade is the rare dish from far-gone days to which I’ve added ingredients, finding the original spare, even to my sometimes Spartan tastes.

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